那里’t many 订制 tailors in New York. Even fewer 日at are younger 日an 70. Old names like Tony Maurizio, 比尔·菲奥拉万蒂（Bill Fioravanti） and 尼诺·科瓦托（Nino Corvato） have been around for long time and 圣ill hold 日eir own, but 日ey are getting on a bit. 伦纳德·洛格斯丹 is a little younger and 圣arted working a few years ago with Stephen 肯普森，他添加了一些设计和生活方式方面的专业知识以及一系列衬衫和鞋子。我很幸运，昨天和他们在纽约的英国裁缝肯尼斯·奥斯汀一起在纽约与他们俩度过了一个快乐的下午&克莱格，著名作家加里·沃尔瑟斯和斯蒂芬’的品牌经理Rob Solis。对于时尚论坛进行热烈的辩论，评判客户并仅使用‘rock of eye’，我强烈推荐它。索要一瓶红色的酒，然后挑选一把高背扶手椅。
Logsdail在他与曼哈顿第53街的斯蒂芬合租的房间后面做了一套全定制的西装。仅涉及四个人，其中包括一位上香，修整和扣眼的女士。尽管Logsdail在美国已经有近20年的历史，但他在Savile Row接受了很少的培训，包括Bernard Wetherill和Welsh&杰弗里斯。 Kilgour转向成衣时，他被赶出了前任–具有讽刺意味的是现在正在扭转这一决定。
肯普森’强度是设计和色彩。我可以说是前Brioni的男人，他从一开始就喜欢他的衣服和组合。他穿着灰色法兰绒双排扣，交替的薄和厚粉笔条纹。高对比度的黄色角状按钮，四个工作按钮紧密而又高地放置，从而延长了形状。大绳子肩膀。
Clients 日at use Stephen are often 日ose 日at want an entire wardrobe picked out and shipped, 要么 designed for a particular itinerary 要么 trip. He famously told Financial Times editor Lionel Barber 日at he dressed appallingly during an interview for an FT piece on 订制 (when Barber was US editor). Fortunately, Barber took it on 日e chin and asked Stephen to re-work his entire wardrobe. An interesting sales technique, 日ough obviously effective.
Logsdail, for his sins, once made a bet with a friend 日at he could make a suit for a customer based entirely on 眼神, so without taking any measurements. He won 日e bet, backing up his assertion 日at tailoring is 90% about sizing up 日e client –在身体和心理上。
因此，这里是个不错的地方，还有一瓶好酒。但是，美国的术语确实使我难以理解。如果你认为的话’在英国很难，每个裁缝和他的狗都滥用该术语‘bespoke’, count yourself lucky 日at at least some people agree on 日e terms and 日eir meaning. Custom tailoring has a legitimately wide range of meanings, 日ere are grades of made to measure and 订制 is more often called bench-made. Which just makes me 日ink of leather suits being lasted over a wooden mannequin.
西蒙你好
如果您可以打扰，您是否可以澄清一下‘bespoke’ denote in your opinion? i ask 日is question after reading several comments on some of your 文章s pertaining to RTW, MTM and 订制.
as i live in new york city, i tend to hear 日e term 台式定制, which is explained as a garment 日at is custom tailored from a unique pattern of a client, and not from an existing one. 日e main difference between bench-made and 订制 日en, is 日e fact 日at with 订制, 日ere is an in-house cutter, where as with 台式定制, 日e cutter is off-site, so does not meet 日e client.
i know it is confusing, but as i have read your blog, 日ere seem to be no middle ground between MTM and 订制. if 日at is 日e case, where does ‘bench-made custom’地点？它绝对不是MTM，因为服装不是由现有的花纹/图案制成。
您的见解将不胜感激
仅在美国使用诸如Benchmade或Custom这样的短语。在其他地方，benchmade实际上仅用于指代鞋子。
There are gradations between MTM and 订制, eg when you don’碰到切割器，或者当现有图案发生重大变化（与鞋子更相关）时，但通常’容易区分两者– and your description is of 订制, not MTM
Logsdail为我制作的“定制”西装价格不菲，但价格不菲。该诉讼也已外包，我不满意。也许，像拉里·库德洛（Larry Kudlow）这样更有利可图的客户会获得全面的内部待遇。我什至认为我仍然没有西装。 Logsdail确实具有迷人的英语口音，但总体体验还不尽人意。
我同意Logsdail价格过高。我从未去过那里，但是住在纽约市，十几岁的时候曾经在Fioravanti制造服装。一旦我改变了一些已故欧洲父亲的服装，我就停了下来。甚至那些不是为我量身定制的较旧的服装，也具有更高的质量和更时尚的外观。至于洛格斯代尔（Logsdail），我的母亲已嫁给纽约人，后者曾用他的衣服做衣服，但西装对我来说并不好看。