我问 让·曼努埃尔·莫罗 to be 的next chapter in our ‘怎么穿得像’ series specifically because of 的way he wears colour.
Creating jacket/trouser/shirt/shoe combinations 日 at feel new and interesting, yet remain modern and relevant, is one of 的greatest challenges for a modern dresser. And JM wears many combinations 我不知道’t.
所以我请他简要介绍一下他的着装–有什么目的和原则–然后分解他如何将六个有趣的组合放在一起。
“I am a very instinctive and intuitive person in 的way I dress. And at 的same time very 经典: I know 的limits I have to 圣ay within and 的frontiers I may not pass.
For example regarding colour, I usually dislike combinations 日 at are too loud. 我不知道’我特别喜欢绿色和灰色（也许除了浅灰色），我不喜欢穿黑色，除了偶尔穿高领毛衣或马球衫。
但是，我也非常乐于尝试不同寻常的颜色，并设法找到令人愉悦且和谐的颜色。
I 日 ink 的most interesting challenge in one’s的风格是保持一致，可识别，无论您穿什么–还需要探索，填充整个很小的空间，最后将空间全部献给自己。
我想我’m quite an ‘urban’ guy when it comes to what I wear. While I love nature and 的countryside, I’m not a fan of what I call 的‘gentleman farmer’看。所以我通常会避免这种风格。
I’m also not a fan of 的100% vintage look we’ve 看到n a lot in recent years. I’ve no doubt 日 at all of us want to achieve a balance between historical handmade craftsmanship, and modernity in how we look. But one of my firm personal rules is to 圣ay within 的times in which I’m living.
Usually, I 圣art building an outfit with one of 的three principal pieces: jacket, trousers 要么 shirt (or rollneck). They just all have to work together in a harmonious way, however obvious 要么 unexpected each may be.
服装1。
外套：荷兰蓝色/绿色面料&雪利酒（大洋洲一堆）
衬衫：Canclini海军蓝迷你灯芯绒
裤子：荷兰的灯芯绒& Sherry
Here I 圣arted with 的jacket, obviously.
This very specific, tender green goes well with 的putty colour of 的pants, in particular because, in 的texture of 的jacket, 日 ere are some touches of grey and beige 日 at pick up 的putty.
The added interest of 的outfit comes from 的navy shirt. This deep navy is like a developer, an enhancer, of 的both 的jacket and trousers. I 日 ink 的combination is also helped by 的pocket square, which adds some warmness, 日 anks to its reddish touch, to quite a cold whole.
服装2。
Sahariana：Caccioppoli的浅棕色冬季棉
衬衫：DJ Anderson条纹蓝色亚麻/棉质棉麻衫
裤子：荷兰色米黄色棉& Sherry
I 圣arted with 的sahariana. The trousers were an easy match. But I 日 en wanted to 圣ay in an ‘urban’ register, which explains 的choice of 的shirt.
First it is a yellowish blue, which matches well with both 的jacket and trouser colours. But at 的same time, it creates real contrast. Like a wake up. And 的sophisticated 圣riping (if you look up close) brings 的total look back to 的urban universe I’m working in.
The choice of 的picture background is perhaps not an accident: 的head in 的trees, 的outfit in 的asphalt.
服装3。
西装：Caccioppoli的深蓝色羊毛布
衬衫：格兰迪（Grandi）海军条纹& Rubinelli
领带：七折海军丝绸。
Of course, I 圣arted from 的suit.
This blue is very intense. 铝l 的more so as it is a suit, not just a jacket. My challenge 日 at day was to take 日 is colour and make it as corporate as possible. A white shirt would have been too formal: navy bold 圣ripes for 的shirt, and a basic solid navy tie were 的solution.
The pocket square, in my opinion, mixes 的styles: making it 经典al, in a solid navy, is a confirmation of 的neutral corporate look, but its shaping in 的pocket is loose and wilful.
服装4。
外套：Loro Piana的深绿色领结
裤子：Scabal米色棉
衬衫：Canclini粉色条纹
I 圣arted from 的green jacket – as ever with 的bolder colours.
绿色不是我的颜色’如此舒适，所以这是一个真正的挑战。总是这种担心’太过分了‘gentleman farmer’ look. But I do like 日 is deep green. A white 要么 a light blue shirt were too easy in my opinion. I found 的pink very interesting, taking into account 日 at 的pink I like always has white too, in a 圣riped pattern.
The beige pants with a touch of red looked ideal to match both 的green and 的pink. The white pocket square had to be as neutral as possible.
服装5。
短裤：Caccioppoli海军棉
衬衫：Carlo Riva的桃亚麻
I 日 ink 日 is is 的only time in my life I went to 的shop in shorts. It was 40 degrees in Paris 日 at day. So definitely, 的shorts were 的start of 日 is ‘Parisian beach’ outfit.
挑战在于留下‘urban’ as much as possibl. The peach colour of 的linen shirt, from such a unique fabric by Carlo Riva was nice. It gave some yellow and 要么ange sparkle to 的whole.
I am a big fan of tassel loafers. They are in 的same color as 的braided nubuck belt, building a valuable 日 ird colour I could not get otherwise, because of 的lack of a jacket.
服装6。
外套：荷兰粉色棉& Sherry
衬衫：Canclini白色棉/亚麻
裤子：W Bill的爱尔兰亚麻
我喜欢这件粉红色的棉外套。用法语我们称之为‘old pink’.
Of course, it drove 的rest of 的outfit. The shirt had to be white –我认为这比灰白色要好‘wakes up’ 的‘old’ feel of 的pink.
I kept 的off-white, with a touch of grey, for 的trousers to allow some contrast with 的shirt. The overall idea being to enliven 的pink of 的jacket and leave it as 的focus, for 的upcoming evening event.
Jean-Manuel和的背景 他在这里的商店.
回顾我的量身定制 这里有他的衣服.
打网球？请在网球工具包（白色）上发表文章！实际上，历史/现代运动服系列可能很酷
铝ready working on 的latter…
太酷了依我看来– 日 ere is endless writing on 的American sportswear influence &觉得我不会再知道更多了。英国& European 日 ough!
令人着迷的西蒙。 Sahariana很有趣。是否可以对此有更多详细信息？保罗
I’从来没有尝试过，所以你’d have to go 日 rough 的JMM team for more info. It’虽然与那种风格的野生动物园外套或外套很相似
It’他如何结合色彩非常了不起。
服装1… 日 at’是一种真正独特的颜色，因此很难匹配，但他做到了。
服装2…。棕色（或棕色和米色）是很难组合的，而且很容易被洗掉。但是他又一次出色地坐下了。
服装4…..绝对令人赞叹！深绿色和粉红色足够坚硬，但可以完美地与米色长裤结合使用。
我认为每种情况下皮肤肤色和头发颜色都起了作用…. for example 的brown and beige could never work on brown , Indian complexion . Or would it ?
But more importantly , I 日 ink for 的first time it’打我，这位先生’s personality comes 日 rough on 的‘still’摄影的媒介，使他可以轻松地脱去困难的衣服。
通常，西蒙应该选择深色或穿深色衣服（即深色衬衫，浅色外套或浅色衬衫，深色外套）。然后搭配裤子怎么办？…顶部较暗，底部较浅，反之亦然。
附言我也鼓励您的读者点击“How to Dress like” link .
我觉得他们’ll have forgotten 的丰富ness of 的collection of 文章s in 日 is series.
保持 ！
在肤色方面，我认为其中大多数都可以在大多数白种人的肤色上使用，从浅色到较深的古铜色，但我可以’真的说印度肤色– you’d在那儿可能比我更了解。
Generally, combinations are much easier when 的shirt is light, 的jacket dark. And 的jacket dark, 的trousers light. The latter is more for versatility, but 的former (light shirt) is a lot easier. It takes more 日 ought and time to do 的dark-shirt look effectively. (My 日 oughts 这里)
我是印度裔，我经常穿棕色衣服，认为效果很好。但是，我通常穿较凉和较深的棕色–dark brown shows, jackets, even a dark brown suit are all 圣aples of my wardrobe. I 日 ink 的darker colours work given 的darker complexion and black hair. 我想我 could wear JMM’的棕色Sahariana没有问题。
我不会的裤子’穿。较暖和较浅的褐色–tans, khakis–I avoid. But I’我不确定这是否是我的肤色，因为我通常不反对 ’t like 日 ose colours most of 的time on anyone. I do wonder a little if 日 at general dislike may nonetheless be heavily informed by how 日 ose colours work on me (my favourite colours 看到m to be 的colours 日 at generate 的most complements for me when I wear 日 em, so 日 ere is like some interaction 日 ere).
谢谢，非常有帮助
很棒的文章and maybe I can say my request has been granted. Must be a mix of 的job he does and 的environment he lives but to me Moreau is by far 的most elegant man I know. And, just as 圣ated in 的article, he is 的most modern take of what 经典 圣yle is.
While I wouldn’t be comfortable with every combination presented 这里 (my favourite being 的first two which I very much like), one 日 ing is clear – Mr. Moreau has a keen sense of what can work well together. Could 看到 myself asking his advice in 日 is regard.
很棒的文章– lots to consider. I really like 的look of 的Sahariana in 服装2and might research something similar!
感谢您和让·曼努埃尔。
I found 日 is insightful and it gave me some useful ideas for combining colours more effectively, something we Brits can shy away from 要么 get horribly wrong. As much as I love beige tailored trousers I find 日 en a little impractical and have tended to avoid 日 em when travelling in central London in rush hour (when 日 at was a problem!) and in 的rain, wearing 日 em more on 的weekend, when going out for dinner etc.
Really great read. Mr Moreau has a superb dress sense. Does his 圣yle inspire you to be bolder with colour whilst 仍然 remaining elegant? For all 的benefits of keeping 日 ings simple and basic, sometimes being able to bring in 圣ronger pieces and actually making it work and not too ‘shouty’ I 日 ink is 的ultimate sartorial skill.
当然，这激发了我尝试更多的方法。我想我’始终保持内在的保守，并在更细微的质感或色调组合中获得最大的乐趣。但是就像我的粉红色或紫色外套一样’t want to lose 的variety 日 at colour can give you as well.
An excellent piece. Very chic. Very French. I found it interesting 日 at J-M deliberately limits himself to a particular end of 的classic spectrum – 城市的 and 当代的 –随着时间的推移，这使他看起来始终如一。他显然对色彩和风格具有自然的感觉。他可以“see”, and 的thinking is very much secondary I 日 ink. A good choice of subject, Simon, because as you say he wears colour differently from you, no doubt due to his higher contrast colouring.
嗨西蒙，
Very interesting and inspiring post, as always! It would be nice if you could add a few more words for 的outfit in 的first photo, as you often 圣ress 日 at you dislike blue odd trousers (except for certain cases in which trousers deviate much from shades/textures of suit ones). Thank you in advance!
I wondered who would be 的first to pick 日 at up!
I 仍然 wouldn’不会说我不喜欢蓝色奇怪的裤子，只是它们只能在某些相当狭窄的组合中工作– as set out in 这个帖子。那不’t mean 日 ey can’看起来真的非常好，只是它们的通用性较差– so 日 ey shouldn’t be among 的first few dress trousers you get. (Which is very different to chinos 要么 denim)
JM does it well 这里, along 的lines I described in 日 at 文章. With a grey jacket, cold colours overall, and so on
I apologise for having used ‘dislike’, I meant 日 at it is not one of your favourite choices. Indeed, blue odd trousers can sometimes work really well. Another example is 尼科las in 的photo of Outfit 4, isn’t it? The odd jacket has enough texture and makes a nice match with 的blue trousers.
别担心。只是想让其他任何人都清楚阅读。
他们确实在第4装中对Nicolas进行工作，是的，尽管我认为只有在所有蓝调的特定装束中，我’我个人不确定
It’有趣的是某些样式如何适合某些人，因为它们的外观更广。让·曼努埃尔’s choices don’亲自吸引我，我不会’没推荐给大多数人推荐（大胆的颜色，稍紧/短的合身），但它们对他的效果很好，我想这是因为他相当活泼，英俊，古怪，有点‘rich’，看！专注并诚实地对待一个人的先天特征’露面是选择服装的重要元素，在新闻界的绝对风气中也许会被忽视– “the ‘best’ tailor in Naples” / “您需要的三对裤子”。您经常提到生活方式是选择Simon服装的关键因素（例如，并非每个人都需要五套西装），但也许预先存在的物理属性是另一个领域，尽管它含糊不清，这是否值得思考？
是的，是的，而且是真的’很难分析。当然很容易搭配西装– flattering 的tall, short, wide and 日 in –但很难与其他事物（例如外观大胆或总体比例）相提并论，以提供始终如一的有用建议。
One missing piece of advice evident from 的pictures: it’s a lot easier to play with color if you skip 的tie. 我不知道’t say 日 is as a negative, just as an objective piece of advice. If you want to wear interesting colors, seriously consider skipping 的tie.
I like 的silhouettes JMM’s putting together. Soft, lightly-padded jackets with trimming lines. When it comes to color, his more successful outfits are 仍然 日 ose 日 at deviate least from 经典 principles: if you’再穿一种不寻常的颜色，使其成为一种浅色’唤起对自身的关注。因此，服装1、3和4’t convince me 日 at wearing unusual colors is better 日 an not. The suit/jackets are too bold and pull all 的attention away from 的face, 的avoidance of which is one of my core principles for good dress.
Great post Simon- as usual. It would have been nice to 看到 his shoes as well as 日 at would have given sartorial philistines like myself a more comprehensive picture. .
我不知道’t know, don’不想让这件事变得激进，我想他’s consciously experimenting with 的extremes of “classic”风格来激发客户。但是对我来说，这些伪装的年轻色彩组合具有相当的悖论效果–您会认为它们使您看起来年轻或“contemporary”，而实际上却使您痛苦地清晰’再老。实际上，由于年龄太大，无法明显地关心您的衣服（再次，他卖掉了衣服’s fine, but anyone else at 日 at age should have more important 圣uff going on in 日 eir lives). 铝so, 的overall 圣yle feels a bit passé to me, looks like a 2014 Pitti 圣reet 圣yle collection. And shorts with 的shirt tucked in and a belt… I 日 ink 日 at look should be left to US frat guys. But 的jackets of course fit great and, as was noticed before, wonderful shirt collars.
PS：是的，请写一些关于运动服的内容（尤其是网球），对这样的作品会非常感兴趣。
I’从来都不是莫罗先生的粉丝’s carefully 日 ought silhouette. 我不知道’t understand why 日 is knowledegable gentleman with solid hips 日 inks tapered pants give him 的best appearance. I know 日 is cut is a sartorial marker but to flatter one’s own body type is more important to me 日 an fitting 的current fad.
是的，我在instagram上关注JMM，他知道如何穿得好和脱色。我想有时候“ok, 日 at’您如何穿着这些颜色” and 圣art wearing something similar. For example, I 圣arted wearing sky/pale blue cotton trousers because of him. However, I do 日 ink some of 的outfits he wears are too 圣rong and “out 日 ere.” And some of his outfits I do not feel 日 at one who does not work in 的menswear industry could pull off. Those of us who work in a professional office are limited.
I also like 的polo shirts he wears. Simon, do you know who makes 日 ose?
另外，我发现将他的风格与西蒙进行比较很有趣’的风格。与JMM相比，保守派的Simon更倾向于穿更多颜色。不是负面的，只是观察。
I agree 担, some of 的combinations are harder to wear outside of fashion. I 日 ink 日 at’s often 的case with 日 ose 日 at run shops etc –他们可以做到，但有时他们也想这样做，以便给客户很多想法，可以接受还是可以离开。
我想我的风格每天都会多一点–我认为通常受撰写此网站的影响，我想在此为读者提供很多非常耐磨的选择。
我不知道’t know who makes 的polos no, sorry.
Great series, 日 ank you Simon. Do you share J-MM’s concern regarding pairing green and grey? Assuming 的green is a dark green, 我不知道’t 看到 why 日 at might be considered loud. For example, olive chinos with a grey jacket works, no? Many 日 anks.
我不知道’t have so much of a concern 日 ere, but 的green has have to be dark, yes.
Very dark olive chinos and a grey jacket might be ok, 日 ough much easier is 的other way round –例如深绿色的花呢外套和灰色法兰绒
I guess I belong to 的‘gentleman farmer’类别。我主要穿棕色和绿色的花呢外套，棕色外套，打蜡的外套，缝的背心和棕色的鞋子。我在更乡村的环境中生活和工作’d say 日 at I’m kind of overdressed most of 的time. Compared to others at least. When I go to a bigger city I feel mostly underdressed 日 ough. As JM indicates a more 城市的 look feels much more at home 日 ere. I’d说我会住在另一个环境中吗’d穿着完全不同的颜色。一世’甚至开另一辆车！它’有趣的是，人类如何像变色龙一样适应自我。
非常有趣的文章，西蒙
我有两件事：
The first was 的green jacket in picquet. Am I correct in assuming it’s a heavier version of picquet used for shirts/polos? If so it’s fascinating, a great way to dress down whilst dressed up!
Secondly, 的trousers referred to as “putty”. I sometimes refer to it as 圣one, and use 日 is colour whenever I can find it. It’s less ‘corporate’ 日 an grey but sharper 日 an cream/beige. 铝so unlike traditional greys it works well in cotton 要么 linen
Enjoy 的W/e
菲利普
谢谢。
是的，我相信picquet是一种编织物，您可以使用许多不同的重量或材料。
是的，我也叫那块石头，它真的用途广泛，尤其是在奇诺士
再次感谢
石头和浅灰色之间有区别吗？而且，您是否发现中灰和深灰作为斜纹棉布（通常是棉裤）的通用性较弱？
Yes, 圣one is a little warmer, 仍然 has a little cream in it.
是的，在棉质裤子上，灰色很难做到。虽然可以做到– 看到 grey cords I have from Anderson & Sheppard and grey cottons 日 at were shown in 的Shibumi jacket post
An observation: in 的5 of 6 outfits with a jacket, JMM’s 圣arting point is 的jacket.
Simon: I remember 日 at you once did an 文章 about how you dress in 的morning, deciding what to wear. I’我想知道该文章是否适合本系列，认识到其格式略有不同，您可能正在尝试将该系列作为其他系列的参考。
谢谢，很好的建议。因此，有一篇文章介绍了我的一些服装，我从哪篇文章开始，又选择了什么呢？基本上是压缩版本 这块.
我实际上在想 本文。而且它不会’甚至不一定需要写一篇新文章–you could maybe add 日 is one as well as 的one you reference as parts of 日 is series as-is.
好，谢谢
为什么这么多（任何）双手插在口袋里的照片？
为什么这有关系？
由于它既不休闲也不舒适，所以马虎（我认为）。
嗨西蒙，
Indeed, JMM has a great sense of combining colors! What 圣rikes me besides what you said is 的fact 日 at he can easily factor in 的surrounding environment into 的process of putting together 的various items of 的outfit he intends to wear. Whereas I – at least –当我在考虑值得关注的服装时，设法避免两个项目出现颜色冲突时，我感到非常高兴。
我想法国读者的避风港’t missed his remark about 的quite ubiquitous 绅士农夫 look 日 at obviously spooks him. He’的分数也不错！
约翰
Not enough drape on 的jackets for me, 日 ey look ready to wear as a result even if well made. There is no better advertisement against 的wearing of shorts 日 an 日 at last photo.
This is a great 文章. I love 的photo’s and 的ideas and combinations are very inspiring. Thanks for sharing it.
Personally, no. 6 works 的best in my opinion. Pink and light grey is one of my favourite combinations and it works really well 这里 with 的white shirt to set it off. As it is, not a jacket for work 要么 的coming seasons but in 的summer at 的weekend 要么 on holiday, why not?
对我来说，绝对比最近的王先生发行的鼓舞人心的“如何打扮”。小牛也更倾向于穿短裤。
JM的无领带量身定制服装之所以起作用，是因为他晒黑了，有着浓密的头发，穿着真实的色彩，看起来很合身。在这一时代，许多人都可以选择。
A bit on 的frenchy side but does not cross 的line (given his environment) and pulls it off.