穿着黑色
在过去的一年中，我’ve gradually been wearing more 黑色.
读者会发现，在 这个伯格& Berg 黑色 shirt，例如，和 日 ese 黑色 cords。不过，这在鞋上特别明显，我也提到了’d picked up some 爱德华·格林 loafers in 黑色 cordovan.
像这种趋势通常发生的那样，它们并不是在真空中发生的。我看到其他人戴着它，其他人看到我，每个人都相互影响。
我有多种原因’ve found 黑色 attractive.
其一是它是全新的，新鲜的。所有服装都会发生这种情况：一切都有趋势。我们’男装很幸运，它们使用寿命更长，根本没那么重要。
的second reason is 日 at it sits well with 日 e 冷 , dark colours I like to wear anyway. Dark brown flannels, charcoal coats and cream knitwear make me 快乐. They feel stylish and refined, but not as showy as bright patterns 要么 bold colours.
And a 日 ird reason - one 日 at I 日 ink lies behind much of 黑色’s general appeal - is 日 at it has some attractive associations. Whether Johnny Cash, Parisian women, 要么 bikers, 黑色 has historically been considered chic, young 要么 凉 .
这在经典男装中特别有力，因为许多穿着它的人经常担心它可能显得过于传统，过时或陈旧。
Black is also more likely to 看 more urban 日 an rural - city not country.
In 日 e traditions of classic menswear, however, 黑色 is usually frowned upon (outside of smart shoes and leather accessories).
There are good reasons for 日 is. Black suits generally 看 bad - cheap and flashy - compared to 日 e sophistication of navy.
So do 黑色 coats, with charcoal being a better choice. 针织品 too, to a lesser extent.
And while 黑色 shoes are great, 日 ey're usually prescribed for formal business clothes, not casual ones. Brown shoes are more casual and more versatile.
As for 黑色 trousers 要么 黑色 shirts, how do you wear 日 em? Do 日 ey go with anything besides grey? What shoes do you wear with 黑色 trousers?
所有这些事情都是正确的。
我从不喜欢称它们为规则，但是这些习俗是 着装的基础，并且在进行其他任何操作之前都应该学习，练习和理解。
但是这样做之后，继续前进-玩弄异常和替代方案是很有趣的。
This is how I would categorise wearing 黑色: as a niche, interesting exception. 而那不是’做起来很容易。而是 像高/低敷料， requires 日 at foundation of classic combinations to understand what works and what doesn’t.
的most important 日 ing to understand is 日 e ‘coldness’颜色，如前所述。
您 can read 日 e full 文章 on 暖/cold colours 这里 , but basically 冷 colours have less 饱和 - less colour overall.
Anything without real colour is easy: grey, charcoal, white, cream, 黑色. And 日 en most other colours can have 冷 equivalents.
My dark-brown flannels shown in 日 e top images and below, for example, are 冷 er 日 an most browns. Indeed, Fox calls 日 e colour ‘char-brown’反映出那里有太多的灰色/木炭这一事实。
Olive green is usually 冷 er 日 an forest green. Dark navy is good, but not blue. Oatmeal is better tan.
These kinds of colours are 日 e easiest to wear with 黑色 shoes 要么 boots, as illustrated above.
在佛罗伦萨我的图像中’m wearing 黑色 Shannon boots from 爱德华·格林 with my 棕褐色 trousers. And in 日 e studio shot, 我的木炭维斯特鲁奇西服搭配那些靴子.
And 日 is is 日 e biggest attraction of 黑色 for me at 日 e moment: 休闲鞋s such as boots 要么 loafers in 黑色, when a shade of brown would be more expected.
另一个例子是 在这里穿, from 日 e pop-up shop last January, where I was wearing dark-brown loafers but could have worn 日 ose 黑色 cordovan ones - and 日 e effect would be pleasingly different.
艾伦 See from 的Armoury also illustrated ways of wearing 黑色 during Pitti. He wore a charcoal coat from Liverano over grey and 黑色 on several days.
在上方的图片中’s a 黑色 roll-neck with a grey double-breasted suit, and 黑色 leather shoes. Another day it was 日 e same roll neck over a grey checked jacket, dark indigo jeans and 黑色 boots. And in 日 e lower image above, it's a 黑色 tie and white shirt, with 黑色-suede loafers.
其他值得一看的是来自布莱斯兰的Kenji’s (below), who likes a 黑色 tie with his grey suits, and a 黑色 alligator belt; Oliver from 鲁巴托, who often wears 黑色 loafers 要么 slippers with white jeans; and Willy from 的Anthology (shown lower down).
One 日 ing 日 ese examples also make clear is 日 at 黑色 is quite restrictive. It makes some demands on everything else in 日 e outfit, given its tone.
这就是为什么它对我来说仍然是一个例外。
I’ll still wear brown shoes far more often - but I like playing with 日 e option of 黑色 in more casual situations 日 an I did in 日 e past.
另外，鞋子和配饰也很容易。衣服更硬。
那 黑色 corduroy shirt of mine from Berg & Berg 很棒，但我只能搭配几件衣服穿-例如深绿色 我的Zizolfi花呢夹克以及灰色长裤。
Black trousers are even harder. Worn with 黑色 shoes, 日 ere's a lot of 黑色 going on. Dark-brown suede shoes are OK, in a casual style. Perhaps Colour 8 cordovan at 日 e outside.
But few jackets 日 at 看 good with 黑色 trousers. 我的伯格& Berg cords 到目前为止，您只穿着灰色或奶油色针织服装-没有夹克。
Of course, you can wear 黑色 all over - as Berg &Berg创意总监Andreas Larsson（下）做到了。但是那’s more of a ‘look’比我认为大多数永久风格读者想要的要多。
还有两件事。
First, 黑色-suede shoes belong in 日 is category of difficulty. I have a pair and love 日 e effect with grey suits, perhaps grey trousers (Cary Grant has a lot to answer for 这里 ). But 日 at one piece is driving 日 e whole rest of 日 e outfit.
And second, skin colour has a role. Someone like Kenji, with his 高对比度 between skin and hair, 看s particularly good in 黑色 and white.
那’s doesn’t mean others can’穿（正如我所说 在我的肤色上，’是一个因素，而不是绝对的因素），尽管他们有肤色，但安德烈亚斯（Andreas）或伊桑·牛顿（Ethan Newton）还是做得很好。但它’有一点要注意。
I would encourage PS readers to try more 黑色. It is often in unusual touches like 日 is 日 at a real personal style develops.
Just approach with caution. Start with a 黑色 loafer, for example (which you might already own) with more casual combinations. Grey flannels perhaps, and a dark/cold sweater 要么 jacket.
在尝试完整版Johnny Cash之前，先找出您是否喜欢它。还是完整的安德里亚斯。
我的衣服：
- 埃瑟尔·德·切萨雷的人字形木花呢定制外套
- Luca Faloni的灰色卷领
- Whitcomb的棕褐色Fox法兰绒长裤& Shaftesbury
- 爱德华·格林黑色小牛皮/麂皮香农靴
- 永恒风格的奶油色手表盖
- Lavabre Cadet的深棕色手套
Photography: of me, Jamie Ferguson; others, courtesy of 的Armoury, 的Anthology, Bryceland's, Milad Abedi and Berg & Berg.
嗨，西蒙。
我想知道您对午夜蓝色的看法是（特别是对于西装或西装外套/运动夹克）。您是否还要说这种颜色比海军蓝更难穿。
谢谢。
嘿斯蒂芬，
我个人’d说是的，如果可以’s true midnight blue and 日 erefore largely indistinguishable from 黑色, it would be as hard
我有一件午夜蓝色西装外套，不是’非常通用。我通常将它与深棕色长裤搭配。那很好。中灰色也可以，但是您看起来像保安，所以我避免这种组合。
阅读本文后，我可能会尝试搭配奶油西裤。
Had a flash of inspiration and am wearing 日 e midnight blue blazer today with charcoal trousers and a dark grey merino turtleneck and 黑色 oxfords.
It 看s elegant.
I’ve also been wearing more 黑色 日 is year, after considering it a more difficult colour to wear previously, outside of funerals and 黑色 tie.
I’d在您的年终调查中建议/要求，很高兴看到更多其他人与您在文章中讨论的样式建议或样式主题进行比较。我可以’想象不到在这个方向上比在本文中更柔和的转变。它’很高兴看到，乐于助人，在这种特殊情况下，我认为它确实很好用。
保持良好的工作！
感谢您在特洛伊调查中的评论，我’我很高兴您认为这件作品很不错
Black was my 制服 in NYC in 日 e 1990s; it was (still is?) everyone’s 日 en. Like short hair, I suppose, 黑色 is so much easier. Just put it on and go.
Yes, 黑色 is 日 e standard in NYC from September to March, particularly for women. My (English) wife caused quite a stir when we lived 日 ere as she refused to conform, and regularly wore white, pink, blue etc. Some of 日 e locals decided it would be fun to follow her lead, and all decided it was very liberating!
All 黑色 is really hard to pull off, but wander around Paris in winter and you will regularly see guys in very dark grey flannel with a 黑色 roll neck sweater and 黑色 suede shoes. And dark glasses in sunny weather. 那 does work.
的article a while back about wearing your Dege and Skinner brown linen suit with white shirt and 黑色 tie has been useful to me in 日 inking about 黑色 –环境条件似乎很重要。您指出，在那不勒斯刺眼的阳光下，深深的长长的阴影下，高对比度的外观显得更加紧密。更常规‘high contrast’我们大多数人可能会发现自己的场景当然是在夜间人工照明下，’s where I’ve grown fond of wearing 黑色. A fairly obvious position to reach given 日 e historical custom of wearing 黑色 and white at night, but a few years ago I wouldn’除了晚礼服以外，还没有考虑过其他方面。在我们的慢时尚世界中，这些小进步令人印象深刻！谢谢西蒙。
感谢Simon的另一篇发人深省的文章。
太多不成体系的想法无法付诸实践。但是首先-我希望不要简化-我想到这可能是季节性敷料的一种形式：与臭名昭著的秋季敷料完全相反； Winterreise专辑封面也许。其次，它给我留下了深刻的印象，它是一个低对比度，精细且口语化的陈述。一点点的代码？
我觉得你’re certainly 对 日 at it’不太适合夏天，是的。不太清楚你的观点’是根据第二个建议重新制作的，但是是的，虽然颜色对比度不总是很低，但肯定会涉及一些小的颜色差异– eg 黑色 with light grey. It’s more 日 e tonality and 冷 colours 日 at I 日 ink defines it
关于第一点：我不只是在说“not summer”;我的意思是特别是冬天-备用，灰色/黑色，光秃秃的树木，乌鸦-可以在Winterreise宣传材料上看到伊恩·博斯特里奇（Ian Bostridge）看上去喜怒无常的任何图片-以及秋天调色板的对立面，因为那些可爱的红色/棕色/金色叶子现在已经死了走了。
这并不意味着要隐瞒第二点，而是大多数插图不仅在单色中工作，而且在中间到黑暗的一端工作。我在考虑伦勃朗蚀刻和黑暗调制吸引您的目光。’在图片的左侧，但是我总是向右看）
http://www.rembrandtpainting.net/rmbrdnt_selected_etchings/recent/rembrandtchristbisbis.jpg
西蒙 what do you 日 ink about 黑色 denim jeans? Been eyeing some by Blackhorse…
I’从未有过。我认为它们可能不会与我穿的其他休闲衣服搭配得很好，但避风港’t tried so couldn’t say for sure.
I’ve been a fan of 黑色 jeans for a long time.
黑色牛仔裤，栗色/咖啡麂皮绒鞋，白色OCBD，木炭毛衣。
黑色牛仔裤，栗色/浓咖啡绒面革鞋，淡蓝色或白色OCBD，锈色/鼠尾草/苔藓花呢。
Black jeans, 黑色 suede BC’s, 黑色 rollneck.
等等。
一如既往’t overthink 日 ings.
I 日 ink 黑色 Jean’s, if 日 ey’re actually denim, will 看 more like charcoal as you tend to have some white showing 日 rough. If not 对 away, 日 en before long.
好点子
I 日 ink during 日 e Pommella talk with 西蒙 and Douglas Cordeaux! I believe it was Douglas who made 日 e statement 日 at if you can get anything vintage in Black it is well worthwhile as 日 e 黑色 newly created is not a true 黑色 as 日 ey are not allowed to use 日 ose dyes anymore. There is a video recording 日 e talk in 日 is websites previous posts.
It’s 这里 伊恩
I’我有一双，我不推荐他们。基本上，它们只搭配某些作品，大部分都是休闲作品。白色T恤，灰色和燕麦色毛衣，白色运动鞋。得益于木炭和骆驼大衣，冬天更轻松。当然，还有黑色靴子。打扮很容易，但是’s one way only – white shirt, 黑色 shoes, maybe grey cotton jacket. Go for 日 em only if you have many other options, because 日 ey don’t offer much
An interesting 文章. Here in Toronto 黑色 has been a mainstay of urbanites for 30 years……几乎回溯到“hip”50年代后期’s. And early 60’s。我们在这里几乎不认为自己是时尚潮流引领者“大白北” but it appears we might be. I myself have a 黑色 linen suit and a soft flannel suit which I reserve for funerals ( choice depending on 日 e season) but have always considered 日 em too severe for everyday wear….almost like “mafioso” cosplay. I also have a 黑色 wool/cashmere pea coat and several both 黑色 cotton and wool trousers. Perhaps I will now give 日 em more “air time”.
当你说，“燕麦是更好的棕褐色”您是说燕麦片是棕褐色的更好版本，还是说燕麦片如果是棕褐色则会更好（在这种情况下）
它应该读‘燕麦胜于棕褐色’. Sorry. As in, it’浅棕色中更好的选择
西蒙，你能解释一下棕褐色，燕麦片，奶油和米色之间的区别吗？一世’我实际上不知道其中哪些可互换使用…
不幸的是我没有’t 日 ink 日 ey’重用一致。也许给出一个相当标准的例子的帖子会有所帮助。
但至少，奶油几乎是白色的，棕褐色是最强的颜色（橙色/黄色较多），而米色和燕麦片介于两者之间，燕麦片最接近奶油。其中，棕褐色和米色似乎是最易定义的
嗨西蒙， 日 ank you for you 文章. I would really like to wear 黑色 jeans (perhaps washed so more grey-black) with a jacket but have been struggling, as you mention, to 日 ink of a suitable paring of jacket. I was 日 inking 日 at perhaps marling and Evans PoW tweed 要么 one of 日 e recent fox PoW tweeds in grey/black/cream whatever 日 ey are would be an option, what do you 日 ink?
Yes, 日 at might work. 的whole 日 ing might 看 a little monotone and severe 日 ough. Dark, 冷 versions of other colours might be better –就像我链接的Zizolfi花呢。
最后，大多数时候，深色靛蓝牛仔裤会更讨人喜欢，更容易搭配其他颜色搭配
我不知道是否’s easier to wear 黑色 clothing 日 at has a prominent texture (e.g. your corduroy trousers/shirt and suede boots).
One of 日 e problems with 黑色 is 日 at it can 看 flat and texture helps avoid 日 at.
您 might be 对 维诺特 , I hadn’t 日 ought of 日 at. Black shirts and 黑色 jeans have a similar issue until 日 ey start to fade and go grey in places
嗨西蒙， I 日 ink 黑色 mostly works when 日 e texture brings a subtlety, making it lean towards a dusty charcoal. I notice 日 at your two recent acquisitions from Berg&伯格是灯芯绒。亚麻也可以放在此类别中。
黑色 definitely adds an edge and youth to any appearance. Its a good recommendation to experiment with 日 e colour; and It’s not incredibly difficult to pull off. just wrap a 黑色 scarf around any of 日 e models in 日 e photos above and you can see 日 eir image transform. Black + charcoal and 黑色+ tan (both seen above) are really 凉 combos.
伟大的文章西蒙，我’ve had a 黑色 and grey check wool blazer for some time but find it very difficult to pair with anything other 日 an grey. What color trousers would you go for when wearing a dark grey blazer?
I’d suggest trying any of 日 e 冷 colours I mention above –深棕色，深橄榄绿色，米色，奶油。确实是海军 如这里讨论的。希望检查意味着外套和裤子之间有足够的对比，即使外套是深色的。
There are 暖 黑色s 日 at go with other 暖 colors
谢谢。您是否有机会看到我们提供的示例？
Add red to 黑色 to 暖 it…my Italian fabric trousers are 暖 黑色
谢谢
Again, you are confusing 饱和 and 色调. (Wikipedia has an 文章 on color 日 eory 日 at explains 日 e difference between 日 ese two terms and between 暖 and 凉 colors). 凉ness and 暖th of colors is a property of 色调, not 饱和. Blue, for instance, is 日 e 凉 est of 日 e 凉 colors and can be very saturated. 我不知道’不能说这很古怪。我说这有几个原因。
1）条款‘cool colors’ and ‘warm colors’具有非常标准的含义，与您使用它们的方式完全不同（我还没有 ’没看到其他人像您使用它们那样使用这些词）。以其他方式使用这些词可能会造成混淆。
2) These terms capture important differences 日 at are useful in explaining meaningful differences. For example, whether a color goes with 黑色 is mostly a matter of 饱和 (whether something is colorful 要么 more grey/black/white), but 色调 (this is where 凉 ness and 暖th come into play), and 值 (how dark 要么 light something is) also probably play a role. Any 日 eory of what goes with 黑色 will be incomplete if only one of 日 ese factors is considered.
谢谢EL。
So when I say 日 e colour is more saturated, I mean 色调. Got it.
在第2点上，我还看到了三件事都很重要，尽管我’d说暗v光不太重要。当然，对我来说感觉就少了。
在第一点，我的方式’m使用这些短语对我来说很直观，并且似乎可以与他人交流。一世’我不确定有人说过’s confusing.
如果我改变这个词‘saturation’ for ‘hue’, how is 日 e way I’我使用令人困惑的词吗？一世’d like to understand
非常感谢
“So when I say 日 e colour is more saturated, I mean 色调. Got it.”
-The issue is 日 at you take 冷 和暖 to mean something different 日 an what 日 ese words normally mean. One of 日 e ideas in 日 is 文章 is 日 at 黑色 goes with 日 ings 日 at are 饱和度较低. 的problem is, instead of saying “less saturated” you say “cold”. 的冷 ness of a color has nothing to do with how saturated a color is. Coldness is a matter of how blue a color is; 暖ness is a matter of how red a color is. 您 are basically talking about how grey/white/black 日 ings are, 日 ough.
“在第2点上，我还看到了三件事都很重要，尽管我’d说暗v光不太重要。当然，对我来说感觉就少了。”
-我同意。到目前为止，饱和似乎是最重要的。不过，价值（事物有多黑或多亮）似乎很重要。您上面有照片的大多数服装都只有很少量的白色，浅灰色和乳白色。
“在第一点，我的方式’m使用这些短语对我来说很直观，并且似乎可以与他人交流。一世’我不确定有人说过’s confusing.”
-It makes sense to you because you are expressing 日 e 对 idea, but with 日 e wrong words.
-他们可能没有意识到这是令人困惑的，特别是如果他们不熟悉该区别的话，但这肯定会导致混乱。例如，如果另一个服装网站以通常的意义使用这些词，而有人读了这两个词，可能会导致混乱或至少阻碍理解。
-我之前提到的另一个问题是使用‘cool’ and ‘warm’当您使用它们时，可能会导致人们忽略颜色的其他重要方面。
“如果我改变这个词‘saturation’ for ‘hue’, how is 日 e way I’我使用令人困惑的词吗？一世’d like to understand”
-主要问题是您对‘warm’ and ‘cool’. 的main point in 日 e above 文章 actually has nothing to with 暖 and 凉 colors (at least as far as I can tell). ‘Cool’基本上是蓝色‘warm’ is basically how red a color is. 您 r main point, 日 ough, is 日 at 黑色 goes best with very low 饱和 colors like grey, white, and cream. These colors need not be 暖 要么 凉 .
再说一次，如果其中任何一种令人困惑（就像大多数人第一次学习这些东西时那样），我之前提到的Wikipedia文章就很清楚地列出了这些东西。
谢谢EL，那’s helpful.
您 ’re 对, I mostly mean a lack of 饱和, but also (perhaps less so) how 冷 (and as you say, 日 erefore blue) 日 e colour is too.
将两者分开似乎是最难显示和解释的方面。
我也觉得’s an extent to which colours with less 饱和 usually feel 冷 er, perhaps in a more intuitive, physical way. And given 日 ose words are obviously normally used to mean something different (actual temperature) 日 ey must be 日 e hardest ones to tie down to a particular definition?
Etymologically, 暖/cold colors may have been first uttered in descriptions of landscapes in daylight vs. night. This is consistent with your intuition 日 at 黑色 trends 冷 . But modern color 日 eory indeed uses 日 e terms to describe different 色调s, with red/orange/yellow near 日 e “warm”杆和蓝色/绿色/紫色“cold.”
没有使用任何这些概念的简单理论—饱和度，值，色相—perfectly describes my preferred pairing with 黑色. Generally, I strongly prefer colors of both moderate to high 值 and 饱和 next to 黑色: oxblood, copper, forest 要么 olive green (the forest green coat in 日 e 艾伦 See picture works well with 日 e very dark trousers), aubergine, navy. I can’t imagine most pastels working with 黑色. But 日 en white, beige and camel are all great. None of 日 is makes 黑色 suits easier to wear with non-whites, 日 ough 日 ere’s a recent 黑色 tie trend of wearing bold velvet jackets over 黑色 trousers 日 at illustrates my preferences pretty well.
This is just my personal view too, of course, but 日 e way 暖/cold has been used on PS has always seemed intuitive to me. All you need is a couple of examples, as 日 ere were in 日 e 起源 al post, and say 日 at one’s 暖, 日 at 冷 , and it immediately makes sense.
我找到EL’的信息非常有趣，但是技术性太强，有些混乱。那里’如果简单的描述（如该篇文章中的描述）有意义，则无需进入色彩理论，将色相和饱和度分开。一样‘value’ –只是说更深或更浅。即使它’技术上不太准确，’没关系，因为已经有效地传达了要点（达到要点所要求的级别）。
另外，我认为最近很多人习惯于通过描述照片来描述色彩– on 日 eir phone for example. And 日 e way 饱和 and 暖th are used in 日 ese posts is as how I experience 日 em from 日 at editing. I can give a photo more 饱和, I can adjust 日 e temperature, and I get 日 e effects 西蒙 is describing.
再次，精彩的讨论。
就我个人而言’ve found 日 e usage of 暖/cool on 日 is blog confusing, and I’m finding EL’的定义更加直观。我不知道’不想说您的用法有误，西蒙–I’确保您从某个地方拿起它，这在某些情况下很可能是标准配置。从我的背景（一些物理方面的正规培训以及一些计算机图像处理知识）开始，EL’的定义更符合我所知道的。
我同意这一点，并发现“warm” and “cool” confusing in 日 is 文章, but I also come from an art background with an education in colour 日 eory. But 日 ese 日 ings do not come in absolutes. Some say red is 日 e 暖est and purple is 日 e 凉 est, based on wavelengths in 日 e colour spectrum. Then others place 要么 ange as 日 e 暖est and blue as 日 e 凉 est. Warm and 凉 colours are all relative (some blues are 凉 er 要么 暖er 日 an other blues), but most importantly 日 ey are based on 色调s and not on 饱和, as 日 e terms 暖 and 凉 are used 这里 .
In menswear, earth tones like brown and olive are 暖 and city colours like 黑色, grey and blue are 凉 .
For example, olive green is *always* 暖er 日 an forest green. Olive is a shade of yellow on 日 e spectrum, making it a 暖er colour forest green, which is a blue-green.
Maybe 日 e trend to more 黑色 is a reflection of 日 e public mood? Do we wear more 黑色 when 日 e mood is subdued and brighter colours are more prevalent when 日 e public mood is confident and forward 看ing?
This 文章 has me considering a 黑色 scarf with my light grey pea coat.
I’ve always liked 黑色, but agree 日 at it’s hard to wear well and requires 日 ought and attention to detail to pull it off. I have a beautiful herringbone grey cashmere jacket with flecks of white in it 日 at I 日 ink would 看 good with 黑色 flannel pants, but am concerned 日 at 日 ere may not be enough contrast. I have a pair of lighter grey flannel pants, with 黑色 mixed in, 日 at definitely provides more contrast, but it’完全不同的外观。您会推荐什么西蒙？
黑色可能会产生足够的对比度，但是这里提到的其他深色（也请参见上面的评论）可能会更容易？
布莱克是国际美发师’一年52周全天候24/7上色。
It’fun仪馆长也很重要！
我的建议是对任何自尊自强的人的建议。
嗨西蒙，
当我年轻，喜欢冒险时，还是应该说反叛我父亲和祖父的风格…..I would on occasion wear a 黑色 spear point, French cuffed dress shirt with either one of my powder 要么 even sandy 暖 pale gray suits, 要么 with an olive suit, 要么 particularly often, with a rich chocolatey brown 要么 charcoal brown suit, 日 ough I preferred 日 e contrast of 日 e chocolate brown against 日 e 黑色, more.
I have also worn 黑色 semi brogues with a chocolate brown suit, an ecru shirt, and a maroon tie with an ecru silk pocket handkerchief, which 看ed handsome. My hosiery with 日 at was burgundy. There are many ways to play with such combinations.
穿着淡沙色的暖灰色西装，羊毛鲨鱼皮，我有时穿一件黑色衬衫，配以奶油色人物的深色栗色领带，或失去光泽的银色石榴红领带，几乎是香槟。我也曾经穿浅棕色浅色西服的棕褐色半布洛克鞋，搭配各种领带的黑色衬衫和袜子。我想我有一个“black” garment phase, 日 ough I have since, largely left 日 at behind me. I grew tired of so much 黑色, 日 ough I did learn how to play with it, which is very useful. I have also worn a 黑色 tropical weight stiff wool Brooks Brothers sack suit from 日 e 1960s, with a dark mahogany brown alligator skin belt, and chocolate brown suede wingtips, a white shirt, and a muted brown ancient madder tie with figures in olive and rust and yellow with blue. It 看ed very eclectic and interesting.
I’ve been experimenting with 黑色 for 日 e past few years, largely because after some years of eschewing all 黑色 I started to miss it. I’我发现用布’s a bit easier to wear 黑色 日 at has texture (cord, knits, flannel, etc.) – hard 黑色 worsted can be tricky.
在挑选服装时，我经常会很快想到哪些元素应该是前景，中间背景和背景。例如鞋子：如果我穿醒目的勃艮第G&Gs，这些鞋子会吸引眼球，并将成为前景的一部分。深棕色的鞋子往往是中间地带的一部分– not 日 e first 日 ing noticed, but definitely have visual interest. However if I wear 黑色 oxfords with charcoal trousers, I feel like 日 e shoes immediately become a background element, allowing other parts of 日 e outfit to stand out more.
至少对我来说’s how I tend to use 黑色: to create background elements, as 日 ere is little 日 ere to catch 日 e eye, and 我不知道’我个人希望我的衣服的每一部分都脱颖而出，成为前景元素。你不’t have to use 黑色 for 日 is of course – low-contrast elements can also be used to push parts of an outfit to 日 e back of 日 e middleground, Also worth noting 日 at 黑色 can be used to 日 e opposite effect, to create contrast. 的most obvious example is 黑色 tie, 日 e way a 黑色 satin bowtie pops against a crisp white shirt.
嗨西蒙
Interesting 文章, certainly outside of shoes and belts 黑色 is a colour I have rarely considered. Good to hear your perspective.
也许是一个个人问题，但是我对您对一些衣服如何使您感觉到的描述很感兴趣“happy”. Certainly I can relate to feeling confident when dressed a particular way but I have never considered an emotion such as happiness. Perhaps you could expand on what you mean by 快乐 and why is it 日 at drives 日 at feeling.
理查德·尼斯点。
我想我喜欢的衣服给我一种愉悦感，也给我一种自信。这来自几个方面，包括建立一个穿着陈旧，感觉像朋友的老宠儿，看看某物如何完美契合并因此使我称赞，以及颜色和纹理的组合令人愉悦。他们给人快乐，使我快乐。后者可能类似于创意体验–欣赏艺术，听音乐，甚至感觉愉悦的室内装饰。
嗨西蒙
那 makes a lot of sense. After a hard day, 日 e comfort and relaxing effect of swapping a suit jacket for a nice cardigan. Yes, 快乐 is a good word.
非常有趣的照片，尤其是站在铁门前的人穿着的令人惊讶的组合。但是在下面的图片中是’t he wearing rather 暖 beige trousers with an otherwise completely 冷 outfit? And wouldn´深棕色的鞋子缓解了这种温度冲突。
嗨，马丁，
Yes perhaps. 的brown coat and cream roll neck help a little, but perhaps a 冷 er shade of trouser would have been slightly better
For me 黑色 comes into its own as a roll neck sweater. In my opinion 日 e most versatile item of winter clothing. Cashmere for 冷 er days and merino in milder weather. I find it really ‘centres’ an outfit and in my opinion works with most other colours form tonal (eg dark grey) 日 rough oatmeal, and have to say tan in a jacket with texture, to sharper contrasts (although not on me for 日 e latter) and of course indigo jeans. Therefore recommend trying 日 e roll neck as good place to start, 要么 a quarter zip, button neck sweater 要么 a long sleeve merino polo. I. 的summer a 黑色 short sleeve polo.
But beyond 日 at I tend find 黑色 a bit harsh and with hint of ‘uniform’用于其他衣物，传统大衣除外。带有红色衬里和天鹅绒衣领的Crombie（来自Crombie），在更加正式的环境中，作为多年的投资标杆，对我的服务非常出色。
再次感谢西蒙提供的另一篇文章，其中提供了指导和想法。
‘互惠生’ : )
I cant help but 日 ink you are correct in your initial assessment 日 at 黑色 is for johhny cash, parisian women and bikers (and i would add newly transplanted new yorkers trying too hard)!
称我为传统主义者，但我再次同意您的想法，最好留给正装。
Besides 日 e fact 日 at so many people 日 ink 日 at by simply wearing 黑色 日 ey are ‘slimming’他们的外表或存在‘hip’它有点懒惰，部分原因是古老的格言：‘dont worry everything goes with 黑色’？！？它没有也不应该。
您 r herringbone tweed coat is magnificent!
参观说瑞士的德语方言的城市，看看哪种颜色的衣服占主导。在德国瑞士，不要穿会引起注意的颜色非常重要。由于每个人都忙于穿着相同的颜色，所以每个人都感到舒适。瑞士德国人，尤其是男人，不想引起注意。
看看非瑞士成千上万在瑞士受雇的中下阶层的外国人选择的颜色。
检查德国瑞士的任何建筑师穿哪种颜色的衬衫，裤子和夹克。
西蒙
I’ve always enjoyed putting 黑色 and brown together, I would 日 ink you would have tried 日 at as well. I’我敢肯定，你会做的很好。
谢谢罗伯特。是的，一点没错– hence 日 e brown flannels 这里 with 日 e 黑色 shoes, and mention of brown suede loafers with 日 e 黑色 trousers.
还是在衣服的另一部分是棕色的？
“And second, skin colour has a role. Someone like Kenji, with his 高对比度 between skin and hair, 看s particularly good in 黑色 and white.”
Spot on. Here in Mongolia I often covet 日 e clothes of friends who 看 great in 黑色 and white, even 日 ough I’我可以肯定他们穿的东西都在H附近&M水平及其整体装备的成本与一双袜子差不多。对我来说不幸的是，这些服装之所以起作用，是因为它们’re accessorised with jet 黑色 hair and Asian skin. Whenever I try to wear 黑色 –我的棕色头发灰白，肤色从苍白和粉红色到晒伤和粉红色，偶尔会喝醉和粉红色–我似乎被《黑客帝国》拒绝了。
不过，关于鞋子，我可以’t get on board with 黑色. I have a couple of pairs just to fill out 日 e wardrobe, cap toe Oxfords from 卡尔 os Santos and a semi-brogued Oxford from Church’s，但是每当我穿着它们时，我总是低头看着脚，只是想“哦。他们在那里。鞋子。在我的脚上。”我有几乎一样的Santos牛津棕色咖啡，有美丽的铜绿，如果我’m not careful I’ll get distracted by 日 em and wander into traffic. 的黑色 shoes only see action when I’m dusting 日 em.
在意大利，黑色衬衫是不可以的。
不只是在意大利。
I’我住在英国，对我来说，‘black shirt’有一些相当不吸引人的含义：牧师，法西斯主义者和不值得信赖的史莱姆球（发现各种轻罪）。
Fine in cord 要么 denim 日 ough and 日 ere is definitely a place for 黑色 in a man’s life.
嗨西蒙，
I was interested to see 日 is just after reading a piece ( a few months old) on wearing 黑色 on 风格 forum. I notice both you and 日 ey did not discuss 日 e 黑色 odd jacket at all, even 日 ough 日 ey did mention 黑色 suits.. Is 日 is garment truly beyond 日 e pale?
It’伊恩，我想是的，穿起来很难。除非它’有点正式和过时，例如带有灰色长裤，白衬衫和长裙的领带的婴儿车
感谢西蒙（Simon）的回复，我已经忘记了婴儿车。
我有一件这样的夹克，既可以在销售中购买，也可以随心所欲地购买，但是它是海绵状柔软的棉质面料，就像天鹅绒般的mole鼠皮一样，而且太随意了，无法把婴儿推车的外观完全搬走。但是，这是我妻子最喜欢的夹克，因此，我尝试使其工作！
I usually wear it with grey trousers 要么 jeans and keep it for night-time socialising mostly, which is why it is interesting to read your 日 oughts on wearing 黑色 casually. I find it hard to pick any shirt colour other 日 an white with 日 is 日 ough, but a 快乐 wife is more valuable 日 an an impeccable fit.
It’当然很难说出来，但是我觉得那条灰色的裤子和很黑的鞋子也许不错，也许是一件淡蓝色的衬衫– 要么 even pale pink?
我会尝试粉红色的衬衫和棕色的鞋子；老实说我没有 ’甚至不考虑将非黑色鞋子与它们一起使用！考虑到粉红色衬衫搭配灰色西装的外观如何，淡粉色应该是理想的选择。
我已经尝试过搭配蓝色衬衫/灰色长裤组合使用，但是脑海中响起一个警报，告诉我穿海军外套。
西蒙 ，取决于您在哪里工作/混搭。
A 黑色 odd jacket will find a natural fit with a 黑色 T shirt and white jeans.
我很高兴描述得很好。追求幸福和自信是一件好事。食物，书籍，电影和许多其他东西也一样。
西蒙，我已经辩论了好几天是否要讨论这个问题，但是我决定冒险尝试：您的发言让我有些沮丧（因为想要一个更好的词）“这在经典男装中特别有力，因为许多穿着它的人经常担心它可能显得过于传统，过时或陈旧。”首先，我看不到传统有什么问题，而且，大多数衣冠楚楚的男人往往是中年或年长的，因为学习服装的时间要花时间，就像学习服装的时间一样。做得好。最后，正如之前在本博客和其他博客上所讨论的那样，优雅的秘诀之一就是对’自己的皮肤。我看不到如何经常担心出现老式的（再次，什么’这是错的吗？）可能有助于自信地穿衣。既然越来越少的男人理解和欣赏经典的男装，但我们当中仍然应该穿带肘部人字形运动外套，带黄铜纽扣的DB西装外套和充满信心和胆识的Chesterfield大衣，或者根本不穿。
感谢您提出来丹尼尔。我不知道’我认为男人不必一定会担心显得过时或过时，我只是觉得很多。
作为个人观点，我’我也一直对适应其中一些传统特别感兴趣，就像我喜欢如何穿上它们一样，因为我确实认为这将使它们具有更广泛的吸引力。你绝对可以穿自己喜欢的衣服，而我’确保您看起来很棒。但是，让人们了解其吸引力的一种方法是弥合鸿沟。
我希望这是有道理的。
显然这里有一个频谱，需要平衡。您在哪里画线？我确定你不’还是要出去兜风，你呢！😛
nice 文章 simon. what do you 日 ink about 黑色 socks?
I’d only wear 日 em with 黑色 trousers.
穿海军袜子，搭配海军长裤，灰色和灰色。袜子给你照顾– 在这里发布。 （从12年前开始！）
日 ank you. i received some 黑色 socks as a present last year but never wore 日 em as i find 日 em too harsh to combine with anything not 黑色
西蒙
I am reminded of a nice post 日 at you did some years ago on 日 e virtues of a solid 黑色 necktie, especially with some texture (i.e., grenadine).
，
缺口
谢谢 西蒙 for 日 e interesting 文章. Before I started reading your blog 黑色 was my go to colour for dressing up (never owned a 黑色 suit) I feel 日 at I since evolved but have a long way to go. 的one 日 ing I still like is a velvet smoking jacket and a 黑色 turtle neck –我猜就如你所说‘ a 看’…
看到经典的男装人群让我不寒而栗“discovering” 黑色. I’在过去的几年中，所有文章都对拜占庭式的佩戴方式完全不知所措，甚至更经常地将其淘汰。
Here in New York City, over 日 e last 60 years 要么 so, 黑色 has practically been 日 e 制服 among whole cadres of artists, designers, architects, composers, rock & rollers, and other who 看 effortlessly good while being 凉 er 日 an any #menswear pundits who’d glare at 日 em.
These groups fall back on 黑色 for all kinds of reasons, but high on 日 e list are 1: it 看s good, 2: it’s 凉 , and 3: it’s easy.
I mean, come on. Black literally goes with everything. I concede 日 at not all 黑色 clothes 看 good in all contexts. A 黑色 suit is hard to pull off and probably not worth it, and 黑色 overcoats are mostly good for displaying cat hair. And yes, you need dark shoes with 黑色 pants, and people with low-contrast complexions should avoid 黑色 and white. But beyond 日 at … relax. Get down with your bad self, put on some 黑色, flip off a pundit, go downtown, and 看 good.
“…黑色大衣最适合展示猫毛…”
感谢您提供我的早晨笑声！
In my youth everyone who 日 ought of 日 emselves as 凉 和rebellious wore 黑色. So I came up with 日 is slogan –黑色，不合格的官方颜色。
也许是因为它仅限于60年前的晚装吗？我不知道’t know, I’m not 日 at old. 的fun 日 ing is, it might genuinely have been 日 e colour of nonconformism. But since everybody is wearing it, everything is in reverse now. So is NOT wearing 黑色 日 e new 黑色?
Last week I wore my 黑色 mid calf length cashmere overcoat purchased 15 years ago and people, mainly women, loved it. All kinds of comments, mostly very complimentary, were made about 日 e coat and how more men should wear overcoats etc. Of course 日 ere’总是一两个人，总是男人，他们会说些无聊的话“你看起来像矩阵中的Neo”, but I just ignore 日 em. Guys, a long 黑色 overcoat will get you noticed in a positive way. Black still works extremely well when worn correctly.
Regarding 黑色 jeans: almost all of 日 em have 黑色 warp and 黑色 weft, so 日 ey read as true 黑色. When worn in, 日 ey turn gray and have a completely different feel.
黑色牛仔裤是世界上最容易穿的东西之一。您可以穿着它们上班，然后去朋克摇滚演出或歌剧。要使其用途广泛，它们必须是新颖的并且必须非常合脚，并且您必须选择鞋子和上衣。他们搭配切尔西靴子，矮胖的德比犬，几乎任何类型的靴子，上下穿运动鞋。最重要的是，如果您穿着量身定制的衣服，某些面料的效果会比其他面料好得多。
Black jeans used to be part of my 制服, but 日 ese days I only wear 日 em occasionally, partly because I’我们发现了原始的靛蓝牛仔布，并发现它更有趣。
有趣的讨论。您’re quite influential, so your views may likely have some impact on a higher acceptance of 黑色 menswear. I must confess, it can 看 very sleek in some seasons and/or weather and occasions as long as it’s not overdone.
I’我还不完全同意西蒙的观点。而且出于意识形态原因，没有 – hearing 日 e iGent purists claim 日 at 黑色 is for formal evening events is hilarious. I actually have a few 黑色 日 ings, mostly from my metalhead years. But 日 e 日 ing is, 日 e more I learn about clothing, 日 e less use I get from 日 em. Compared to navy, charcoal and charred dark brown, 黑色 is much less versatile in mixing with other colors. So 日 e question remains –你什至可以穿什么？好像’s mostly more 黑色, charcoal, 日 en other greys, pale browns, sometimes navy. Maybe olive greens and burgundys, but it’视情况而定。这里’我的输入，主要是通过尝试我拥有的东西：
–黑色的鞋子和靴子–那些很明显… 黑色, navy, grey pants and suits. Black chelsea boots are underrated, 日 ey can work well with jeans as well. Brown does not seem to work 这里 , but maybe pale charred brown 要么 cream…
– 长裤 – 黑色 chinos 看 cheap, in my opinion at least. Jeans are somewhat better, but still not great –浅棕色和灰色的毛衣，白色的衬衫，或者灰色的棉布或法兰绒夹克？
– 针织品 –高领毛衣似乎是最佳选择，因为其他衬衫与衬衫的对比（太多）（白色）或丑陋的衬衫（蓝色等）与之形成对比。在灰色/木炭外套，西装和大衣下工作，骆驼大衣也可以。我将它与海军外套和豌豆大衣搭配在一起取得了一些成功。
– Blazer – I’d say no. Only works with grey trousers, and makes pretty much all neckties 看 cheap. I have no idea how men could 看 good in Victorian full dress.
– Outerwear – 日 e classic 黑色 leather jacket seems to only work with grey trousers and jeans, white/grey shirts/tshirts knitwear…. 大衣 aren’t much better. I know, it 看s great with gray 3-piece and a 黑色 necktie…。但是还有什么呢？
当然，这里的一切都是完全主观的，并且基于我自己的审美观。一世’m not a radical dandy by any means. But why would I go with 日 e 黑色 turtleneck, when I could go with dark brown, which works with so many 日 ins, over a 黑色 one, which works with 日 ree, tops? Same 日 ing with 黑色 and indigo jeans, brown and 黑色 leather jacket…总而言之，当您已经有一个大衣柜并且可以负担得起一些通用性有限的部件时，这似乎还可以。否则，我会跳过它。除非它’s for evening wear…。但是您如何搭配休闲和精巧的休闲装来穿着晚礼服呢？一世’d喜欢有关的帖子🙂
@ PETER K… “In my youth everyone who 日 ought of 日 emselves as 凉 和rebellious wore 黑色. So I came up with 日 is slogan –黑色，不合格的官方颜色。”
这很好笑;每当我看到反叛团体有严格的着装规定时（哈雷车手，1970年代朋克，哥特人，亡灵等等），我就曾经想过同样的事情。但是我’从那以后，我意识到应该是显而易见的，那就是不符合’t唯一性的宣言—it’宣告效忠某些或其他亚文化。它’s “I’我不是你们中的一个企业’我们中的一个死亡金属贩子！”
个性的宣言更加微妙… 日 ey happen in 日 e little ways you differentiate yourself from other tribe members. 您 wear a different shade of 黑色 laces in your oxfords; I put a subtle fringe of crimson in my mohawk.
I recommend starting with a 黑色 roll-neck sweater. It pairs equally well with jeans 要么 grey flannels.
喜欢这种文章，并衷心同意我的另一位评论者’d喜欢看到更多喜欢的东西！它’我也很及时 ’ve just been in Copenhagen for a week and noticed how many men 日 ere wear 黑色 really well. Albeit in slightly more casual ensembles 日 an you’d通常在PS上找到。
However, some of my favorite outfits were 日 ose 日 at paired mostly 黑色 background with one item in what I would consider a very saturated color such as a tan overcoat, a burgundy sweater, 要么 a moss green shirt (I 日 ink 日 is is 日 e point 本 is making too). I guess 日 is sounds kind of at odds with your idea 日 at 黑色 works best with 冷 er colors (or less-saturated, as some have pointed out is more correct) so was wondering what your perspective is on strong, darker colors with 黑色. Best with more casual outfits, 要么 could it work with smarter combinations too?
就我个人而言 日 ink best more casual.
Though as always, 日 e point with 日 e 冷 er colours is 日 at 日 ey’最简单，最安全，不是他们’是唯一可以工作的东西。
拥有浓烈的色彩’重新谈论，黑暗一定会有所帮助
我确实发现您的文章有趣，但是没有提到袜子的颜色。
我似乎想起了一条规则，那就是袜子应始终与裤子的颜色匹配。情况如何变化？还是曾经有过这样的“ rule “?
上面在评论中提到了它。
符合裤子的习惯是对的，是的，因为它延伸了腿的线条。和我’d generally avoid 黑色 socks for 日 at reason, particularly as 日 ey suggest 日 e man 日 at just wears 黑色 socks because it feels like 日 ey go with everything –但实际上没有补充
在相关主题上，您会选择奶油，橄榄色和深棕色长裤的哪只袜子？尤其是深棕色让我感到困惑–它有鞋色的附加问题
I’d选择所有三个袜子作为我的默认袜子…
之后，我’d最常穿着橄榄绿色，因为我喜欢它与其他所有东西搭配使用。
如果您不喜欢穿带奶油色裤子的浅色袜子，那就穿深色一些的衣服，例如米色
如果你’如果要穿袜子，袜子的颜色会与您穿的任何颜色相匹配。
红衣主教
谢谢！但是，如何避免将深棕色的裤子，袜子和鞋子混在一起？
尝试在鞋子和裤子之间形成一些对比，例如，闪亮的小牛鞋与哑光法兰绒裤子的对比。或鞋子里面有不同的棕色–较轻的身体，例如较暗的身体。
我应该提到，我是通过MCR从Gammarelli（梵蒂冈的供应商）那里获得了红衣主教袜子的。
It’s funny how wearing 黑色 for us “sartorialists” appears to be a bold move, while 日 e average person on 日 e street would consider a higher amount of 黑色 in an outfit a return to normality. I chuckled when Hugo Jacomet told 日 e story of Lorenzo Cifonelli almost fainting when he came up with 日 e idea of commissioning a 黑色 suit.
Coming from a subcultural background, where 日 e only differences in my outfits used to be different metal album covers on an otherwise 黑色 canvas, I personally don’t see myself incorporating too much 黑色 into my outfits any time soon, but your 日 oughts on 日 is topic are highly refreshing, 西蒙 . Greetings from Germany.
西蒙，布拉沃，很有趣。
My opinion is 日 e 黑色 colour in formal dress is restrict white,grey,cream.I find very interesting 日 e combination 黑色 ,navy can i wear 黑色 suede jasket with navy trouser 要么 日 e same jacket with brown chino trouser and brown suede shoes ? 谢谢
好文章好友
与这篇文章无关，但也许您可以提供帮助。
I’在订购裤子时，我想到的一种面料是您建议的通用性很强的面料。它’s E Thomas的油灰色骑兵斜纹布…articolo 1311/164在您的帖子中。’d想得到一个色板，但纽约的分销商没有它。今天向E Thomas发送了一封电子邮件，要求提供一个色板，声明我知道裁缝必须订购它。
您可以提供任何其他帮助来获得这种织物的样本吗？
不，对不起您’也不太可能在这家工厂取得好运– if 日 ey’不是商人/代理商，他们’重新设置为不发送色板。他们甚至可能没有– it’按订单销售给定尺的商人
I am 日 inking of buying my first pair of 黑色 loafers. I 日 ink 日 at i will mostly wear it with a monochrome outfit (think mid-grey trousers and charcoal sport coat). But I am 日 inking of having 日 e loafers in grain to add some interest. (Plain 黑色 loafers is unfortunately associated with midwestern congressmen with oversized blazers). Do you have an opinion on 黑色 grain loafers vs plain calf 要么 suede?
如果你不这样做’我还没有一对’d小山羊皮小牛皮。在谷物上，我’我不敢诚实，我’我从来没有尝试过。我的本能仍然是和小牛一起去，但我’我不是100％。 Cordovan可能看起来也更随意一些？
知道了，谢谢您的回复。仅供参考，如果福克斯兄弟有任何可用的骑兵斜纹斜纹棉布，我已指示我的裁缝为裤子订制并继续前进。 H&S在纽约市中部有一家公司，并且知道他们不出售零售产品，因此欢迎我最近来参观和审查他们的面料。我发现这对我的选择非常有帮助，我的裁缝为我的佣金提供了选择。几个crispair和法兰绒。顺便说一句，他们都给我寄了色板。
再次感谢您的回复。
嗨西蒙，
很棒的帖子，喜欢您的EG靴子。我一直想增加一双脚踝靴，很想听听您的见识，以协助我做出决定。
I have a natural preference for 黑色 over brown shoes. For some reason, brown does not quite feel “me” (however I am willing to try); 日 us have struggled to add 日 is to my wardrobe so far. Working in an office environment meant my first was a pair of 黑色 leather cap toe oxfords. More recently, I added a pair of 黑色 leather Chelsea boots (JFitzPatrick) and 黑色 leather C&J Cavendish. These are always worn with navy suits and white shirt for work, 要么 in 日 e case of 日 e chelsea boots and tassel loafer, with dressy 黑色 slim denim jeans.
I would be grateful to hear from you if you 日 ink a pair of 黑色 leather balmoral oxford boots (like 日 e Shannon of EG) can be suited for both business and smart casual attires (e.g. 黑色 slim denim, other dark denim, navy chinos)? Should 黑色 leather balmoral boots (with cap toe) even be worn with 黑色 denim 要么 navy chinos at all? Would 日 e same boot in dark brown make it suitable for more occasions (perhaps it’终于可以让我尝试深棕色了吗？
预先感谢您的帮助。
嗨，艾伦，
I can see how 黑色 shoes must have been very practical for you, given your smart work attire and 日 en preference for 黑色 jeans more casually. But do you also wear other colours of chinos 要么 jeans? With almost any other colour, brown would be more suited. Even with navy chinos a lot of 日 e time –除非上半部分相当聪明。
Black balmoral boots might struggle to go with your formal outfits, I 日 ink, 日 ough if in all 黑色, no more 日 an 日 e chelsea boots.
My instinct is 日 at you should try brown, but a very dark brown. And you can always use a small bit of 黑色 polish now and again to get 日 em a little darker. But 日 at colour would be better with a broader range of smart trosuers (navy, grey) and casual ones (other denim, khaki etc).
那将是我的建议，有待您对所穿的其他斜纹棉布裤或牛仔裤的答复。
西蒙
嗨西蒙，
感谢您抽出时间来回应。
Aside from 黑色 jeans and navy chinos, I also wear navy jeans, beige chinos and grey trousers although much less frequently.
您 mentioned 日 at 黑色 leather balmoral and 黑色 leather Chelsea boots might not be best paired with navy suit for work. It would be really grateful if you could provide me some guidance 要么 examples on:
1. How to wear 日 ese 黑色 boots best (noting your 棕褐色 outfit covered in 日 is 文章); and
2.一两个衣服，可以很好地与棕色的Balmoral靴搭配。这将有助于我形象化，并给我必要的鼓励，以便最终尝试深棕色。
谢谢
很高兴为您提供帮助，艾伦。
Those 黑色 boots would likely be best with outfits in quite 冷 colours (see details in 日 is post, above), which does make 日 em quite restrictive to greys, 黑色s, other muted 要么 冷 colours. 的棕褐色 trousers are a good example of 日 at, but jeans 日 at are anything other 日 an very dark, and beige too, could struggle with 黑色.
老实说，棕色的balmoral靴几乎可以搭配任何东西。不那么适合，但是任何颜色的裤子和外套，以及任何颜色的斜纹棉布，大多数牛仔裤等等。
也许可以浏览网站的Lookbook部分（在菜单中）–看看我有几套衣服’米穿着黑褐色的鞋子。它’这些靴子几乎可以代替其中任何一件（只是不是最聪明的或夏天的）
干杯
谢谢西蒙。
参考您以前的文章之一“形式上的浮动比例”大致与“right” shoes to 日 e “right”裤子，您会在哪里放那个比例的全皮Balmoral靴子（假设它是更修整型，牛津朴素的趾头，修身的轮廓，皮革鞋底，最小或没有布洛克）？
*我是PS的新手，很喜欢浏览档案。
嗨，艾伦，
很高兴你’重新享受网站和档案–出于兴趣，您认为哪些文章最有用？
至于这样的靴子，我’d说这是正式的，有法兰绒或胡扯–那种区域。因此，不是精纺西服长裤，也不是棉布。木炭绒布，灰色或深绿色的whipcord，海军蓝。修长的裤子，休闲的质感。
西蒙
“Wearing 黑色” , “形式上的浮动比例”, “如果您只有五套西装”是我阅读的第一篇文章，包括所有读者’评论（如果其他人已经问过同样的问题）。这些文章是我早期构建基本衣柜的完美指南，我的目标是在我购买或将要购买的物品（合理的预算范围内）中找到最有用的东西。在这种程度上，虽然我喜欢法兰绒长裤的外观，但不确定在澳大利亚温暖的气候下是否会磨损更多呢？正如您在这篇文章中向您所说的那样，我试图了解Balmoral靴的多功能性，因此它们不仅限于一种场合。这给先生们带来了有趣的比较和反差’s Gazette认为balmoral靴是理想的正式和商务场合。另一个例子是您的Lookbook和“简介：放纵的披肩领开衫”您穿着黑色的Cordovan流苏便鞋和浅灰色法兰绒长裤。帮助我更多地利用黑色流苏便鞋（假设它们仍然可以搭配黑色牛仔牛仔裤一起使用？）。
最后一点，我觉得很有趣，您开始了作为财经记者的职业生涯，并过渡到经典男装并获得并发布了所有这些技术知识。因此，毫无疑问，当我浏览您的内容（从鞋子开始）时，我会再问更多基本问题。
谢谢
艾伦
谢谢艾伦，那’s great to know.
我认为它’可以这么说，其他一些经典男装领域的作家’对大多数人而言，这是相当重要的，而出于自己的利益，也太关注传统事物了。
的‘Wardrobe building’顺便说一句，如果您想了解我认为最有用的作品，系列也是一个不错的选择。 Balmoral靴没有出现在鞋子部分。
And yes, 黑色 tassel loafers could 看 nice with 黑色 jeans.
嗨西蒙，
What are your 日 oughts on a 黑色 linen suit, strictly for knockabouts- mostly worn with t shirt underneath and sneakers?
In regards to 日 is 看- what colour sneakers should I go for?
I 日 ink 黑色 linen can be quite 凉 , 日 ough not as versatile 要么 easy to wear as navy, olive, cream 要么 most other colours.
我个人 wouldn’穿着下面只穿T恤或搭配运动鞋的西装。
但是，如果您要穿一件针织T恤（请参阅 在这里发布）和运动鞋，它们既苗条又简单（请参阅 在这里发布)
亲爱的西蒙，
how do your suede shoes age and does it differ from brown to 黑色 suede? My oldest pair (goodyear/ resoled once) is 5y and 日 ey are still okay, but I guess you have a little more experience. Assuming 日 at calf is easier to maintain long term, 对?
非常感谢！
是的，从长远来看，绒面革将略微失去颜色，并被擦伤或在表面形成压痕。它’可以减轻很多– most people don’例如，甚至不能刷麂皮鞋，但这有很大的不同。每次穿午睡时都要刷一下并拉回。
小牛皮也有盐渍的缺点，但通常仍会老化– when we’re talking 10y plus.
我不知道’t notice much of a difference between 黑色 and brown suede, no.
Please do not overlook 日 at witches prefer 黑色 and 日 e genuine ones know why. 您 can be sure 日 e reason is connected to 日 eir work.
西蒙你好，我’m wondering if one is wearing a 黑色 top (eg. bryceland 黑色 sawtooth 要么 日 eir 黑色 rayon shirts) and say jeans 要么 khaki chinos below, how does wearing brown shoes (calf 要么 suede) 看? I do not own any 黑色 shirts and most pictures I see online with such combination often feature 黑色 shoes (e.g. loafers). Im wondering if brown 看s ok?
我认为它 can work, yes – see 我的瓦尔斯塔利诺在这里拍摄