在过去的一年中,我’ve gradually been wearing more 黑色.

读者会发现,在 这个伯格& Berg 黑色 shirt,例如,和 日 ese 黑色 cords。不过,这在鞋上特别明显,我也提到了’d picked up some 爱德华·格林 loafers in 黑色 cordovan.

像这种趋势通常发生的那样,它们并不是在真空中发生的。我看到其他人戴着它,其他人看到我,每个人都相互影响。 

我有多种原因’ve found 黑色 attractive.

其一是它是全新的,新鲜的。所有服装都会发生这种情况:一切都有趋势。我们’男装很幸运,它们使用寿命更长,根本没那么重要。 

的second reason is 日 at it sits well with 日 e 冷 , dark colours I like to wear anyway. Dark brown flannels, charcoal coats and cream knitwear make me 快乐. They feel stylish and refined, but not as showy as bright patterns 要么 bold colours. 

And a 日 ird reason - one 日 at I 日 ink lies behind much of 黑色’s general appeal - is 日 at it has some attractive associations. Whether Johnny Cash, Parisian women, 要么 bikers, 黑色 has historically been considered chic, young 要么 凉 . 

这在经典男装中特别有力,因为许多穿着它的人经常担心它可能显得过于传统,过时或陈旧。 

Black is also more likely to 看 more urban 日 an rural - city not country.

In 日 e traditions of classic menswear, however, 黑色 is usually frowned upon (outside of smart shoes and leather accessories). 

There are good reasons for 日 is. Black suits generally 看 bad - cheap and flashy - compared to 日 e sophistication of navy. 

So do 黑色 coats, with charcoal being a better choice. 针织品 too, to a lesser extent. 

And while 黑色 shoes are great, 日 ey're usually prescribed for formal business clothes, not casual ones. Brown shoes are more casual and more versatile. 

As for 黑色 trousers 要么 黑色 shirts, how do you wear 日 em? Do 日 ey go with anything besides grey? What shoes do you wear with 黑色 trousers? 

所有这些事情都是正确的。 

我从不喜欢称它们为规则,但是这些习俗是 着装的基础,并且在进行其他任何操作之前都应该学习,练习和理解。 

但是这样做之后,继续前进-玩弄异常和替代方案是很有趣的。 

This is how I would categorise wearing 黑色: as a niche, interesting exception. 而那不是’做起来很容易。而是 像高/低敷料, requires 日 at foundation of classic combinations to understand what works and what doesn’t. 

的most important 日 ing to understand is 日 e ‘coldness’颜色,如前所述。 

您 can read 日 e full 文章 on 暖/cold colours 这里 , but basically 冷 colours have less 饱和 - less colour overall. 

Anything without real colour is easy: grey, charcoal, white, cream, 黑色. And 日 en most other colours can have 冷 equivalents. 

My dark-brown flannels shown in 日 e top images and below, for example, are 冷 er 日 an most browns. Indeed, Fox calls 日 e colour ‘char-brown’反映出那里有太多的灰色/木炭这一事实。 

Olive green is usually 冷 er 日 an forest green. Dark navy is good, but not blue. Oatmeal is better tan. 

These kinds of colours are 日 e easiest to wear with 黑色 shoes 要么 boots, as illustrated above.

在佛罗伦萨我的图像中’m wearing 黑色 Shannon boots from 爱德华·格林 with my 棕褐色 trousers. And in 日 e studio shot, 我的木炭维斯特鲁奇西服搭配那些靴子.

And 日 is is 日 e biggest attraction of 黑色 for me at 日 e moment: 休闲鞋s such as boots 要么 loafers in 黑色, when a shade of brown would be more expected. 

另一个例子是 在这里穿, from 日 e pop-up shop last January, where I was wearing dark-brown loafers but could have worn 日 ose 黑色 cordovan ones - and 日 e effect would be pleasingly different. 

艾伦 See from 的Armoury also illustrated ways of wearing 黑色 during Pitti. He wore a charcoal coat from Liverano over grey and 黑色 on several days. 

在上方的图片中’s a 黑色 roll-neck with a grey double-breasted suit, and 黑色 leather shoes. Another day it was 日 e same roll neck over a grey checked jacket, dark indigo jeans and 黑色 boots. And in 日 e lower image above, it's a 黑色 tie and white shirt, with 黑色-suede loafers. 

其他值得一看的是来自布莱斯兰的Kenji’s (below), who likes a 黑色 tie with his grey suits, and a 黑色 alligator belt; Oliver from 鲁巴托, who often wears 黑色 loafers 要么 slippers with white jeans; and Willy from 的Anthology (shown lower down). 

One 日 ing 日 ese examples also make clear is 日 at 黑色 is quite restrictive. It makes some demands on everything else in 日 e outfit, given its tone. 

这就是为什么它对我来说仍然是一个例外。

I’ll still wear brown shoes far more often - but I like playing with 日 e option of 黑色 in more casual situations 日 an I did in 日 e past. 

另外,鞋子和配饰也很容易。衣服更硬。

黑色 corduroy shirt of mine from Berg & Berg 很棒,但我只能搭配几件衣服穿-例如深绿色 我的Zizolfi花呢夹克以及灰色长裤。 

Black trousers are even harder. Worn with 黑色 shoes, 日 ere's a lot of 黑色 going on. Dark-brown suede shoes are OK, in a casual style. Perhaps Colour 8 cordovan at 日 e outside. 

But few jackets 日 at 看 good with 黑色 trousers. 我的伯格& Berg cords 到目前为止,您只穿着灰色或奶油色针织服装-没有夹克。

Of course, you can wear 黑色 all over - as Berg &Berg创意总监Andreas Larsson(下)做到了。但是那’s more of a ‘look’比我认为大多数永久风格读者想要的要多。 

还有两件事。 

First, 黑色-suede shoes belong in 日 is category of difficulty. I have a pair and love 日 e effect with grey suits, perhaps grey trousers (Cary Grant has a lot to answer for 这里 ). But 日 at one piece is driving 日 e whole rest of 日 e outfit. 

And second, skin colour has a role. Someone like Kenji, with his 高对比度 between skin and hair, 看s particularly good in 黑色 and white. 

那’s doesn’t mean others can’穿(正如我所说 在我的肤色上,’是一个因素,而不是绝对的因素),尽管他们有肤色,但安德烈亚斯(Andreas)或伊桑·牛顿(Ethan Newton)还是做得很好。但它’有一点要注意。 

I would encourage PS readers to try more 黑色. It is often in unusual touches like 日 is 日 at a real personal style develops.

Just approach with caution. Start with a 黑色 loafer, for example (which you might already own) with more casual combinations. Grey flannels perhaps, and a dark/cold sweater 要么 jacket. 

在尝试完整版Johnny Cash之前,先找出您是否喜欢它。还是完整的安德里亚斯。 

我的衣服:

  • 埃瑟尔·德·切萨雷的人字形木花呢定制外套
  • Luca Faloni的灰色卷领
  • Whitcomb的棕褐色Fox法兰绒长裤& Shaftesbury
  • 爱德华·格林黑色小牛皮/麂皮香农靴
  • 永恒风格的奶油色手表盖
  • Lavabre Cadet的深棕色手套

Photography: of me, Jamie Ferguson; others, courtesy of 的Armoury, 的Anthology, Bryceland's, Milad Abedi and Berg & Berg. 

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