帆布鞋:款式,场合和品牌

7月3日,星期五rd 2020年年
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更新: 这是来自迭戈斯的精彩视频 showing how 帆布鞋s are made. You can see 日e better, neater hand sewing of 日e soles mentioned below. 

I remember clearly when I got my first pair of 帆布鞋s. I was 19, on holiday in Spain, and bought a pair from a local market. Dusty and unceremoniously wrapped with an elastic band, 日ey were bought as a cheap alternative to 日e flip-flops 日at were giving me blisters. 

在假期的余下时间里,我每天都穿着它们。即使在那个年龄,我也很欣赏穿着覆盖我的骨趾的优雅。您也可以站在背上,像凉鞋一样将它们穿在身上。他们很酷很舒服。

实际上,真正给我带来的是舒适的脚步声。那里’在构成鞋底的盘绕绳上行走是一件非常令人愉快的事情。它朝着你的脚移动,几乎在按摩他们。并以令人满意的方式进行仰卧起坐。 

那条绳子使它们变得很厉害。大多数人似乎犯的关键错误是将他们戴在沙滩上并带到海边。绳子变硬了,他们’再也不一样了。 

当您每天可能靠近游泳池或大海时,这在度假鞋中似乎是不切实际的不切实际。但是,在它们变湿之前,几乎不需要花力气就将它们取下。如果你’不准备投入那么多精力,你’几乎不穿任何好看的衣服。 

I bought a second pair of 帆布鞋s 日e following year, avoided getting 日em wet, and 日ey lasted another five summers. 

People talk about 帆布鞋s as a 日row-away item, and certainly 日e rope sole will gradually fray at 日e edges. But all you need to do is trim 日em with a pair of scissors, and 日ey’会和新的一样好。 

One 日ing 日e rope is certainly bad for is walking on concrete, 要么 tarmac. Basically, wearing in town. This is where 日e versions sold more commonly in cities today, with 日in 橡胶鞋底s on 日e bottom, are more practical - and perhaps represent a second category of 帆布鞋. 

我不知道’小心这些鞋底。我记得意大利制造商Zabbatigli刚开始(大概10年前)开始制作橡胶时,橡胶太厚,太硬。如今,鞋底普遍薄而柔韧。 

I still prefer a simple rope sole on holiday. I want 日at crunch under foot as I walk out to 日e terrace on a cool morning to have breakfast. But for wearing in London in 日e 夏季, 日e 橡胶鞋底 is best. 

In London, I tend to wear my 帆布鞋s close to home - to 日e shops, to 日e cafe - and not into town. Some readers will consider even 日at inappropriate, seeing 日e shoe as suitable only for home 要么 holiday. But when other men are wearing flip-flops to get 日eir coffee, an 帆布鞋 is significant step up. 

I would even endorse others wearing 日em into 日eir office, workspace, 要么 wherever else 日ey go on a working day. If everyone else is in shorts, T-shirts and sandals, 日en wearing linen trousers and 帆布鞋s will look very good. Fit in, but aspire to better. 

我不知道’t wear 日em into town because I tend to do a lot of walking, and 帆布鞋s are not built for a day of pounding 日e streets. 他们 are a strolling shoe. 

以便’在我穿的地方。那么品牌和价值呢? 

I’ve owned 要么 tried a few: Zabbatigli, Castaner, 德雷克’s,La Portegna,Ralph Lauren和Anderson& Sheppard (above).

我喜欢在卡普里岛上制作的Zabbatigli,但他们’不幸地倒闭了。它们与伦敦提供的意大利和西班牙本地产品最为相似。 

安德森& Sheppard still have a few models of Zabbatigli left, but most of 日eir 帆布鞋s are made in Spain, and sold under 日e A&S brand. These have a similar round-toed shape, and a 日in 橡胶鞋底.  

A点&S与众不同的是它的颜色范围,麂皮和天鹅绒。不幸的是我没有’不太喜欢绒面革或天鹅绒,更喜欢原始的帆布。但是,如果您这样做,那么选择就很棒。 

Castaner(上图)是西班牙的大型制造商,并且为男性和女性设计了大量款式。 树干卖 经典款,再加上更高的系带款。 

就我个人而言,我只喜欢前者,后者的鞋底非常漂亮,但脚趾比其他大多数品牌都要方形。它’鞋面和鞋跟的高度也比A高一点&S line.

没有人独自行走 在美国也有几种不同型号的Castaner。

不过,目前我最喜欢的 is 德雷克’s (下面和上面)。我可以看到别人不会’t喜欢这种样式,因为它的鞋面较低且弯曲,而不是传统的直剪。它的前部也有接缝。 

但是我喜欢弯曲的形状,’注意接缝。特别是因为您在我的海军双上几乎看不到它。鞋底周围的缝线也明显较小,在鞋帮上的穿线较少。 

最重要的是,它们的形状也很苗条,我认为这使它们看上去比传统的宽而圆角的模型更聪明。或者确实是方形的响琴。 

德雷克’的人在£55. 

现在我知道每个人都说这仍然很昂贵,因为他们在假日购买的€10. But you’不休假,你’重新在伦敦。这些你’重新看的时候必须乘飞机进去,放在一家不错的商店,然后由好心人卖给你。即使你’如果要在网上购买商品,就必须运营,维护并完成该网上商店。这个价格的20%是增值税。 

他们’比在海边买到的还要好。对于鞋子你’我会快乐地穿几年’很难与价值争论。 

我跟A有点挣扎&S ones 日at are £120-尽管它们确实使用绒面革,而不是帆布。卡斯塔纳尔是’t too bad at £85,增加了一些小细节,例如脚跟下的皮革贴片和后背的标签。 

我不知道如何证明拉尔夫·劳伦的£300,或者实际上是来自Gucci的£400和Loro Piana在£455.他们都有您可以指向的附加物品,但价值不超过数百英镑。 

我不知道’计数诸如 穆罗(上方),汤姆’s and Rivieras as 帆布鞋s, by 日e way. 

The 日ings 日at define an 帆布鞋 are 日e rope sole and 日e canvas. When you have neither of 日ose, what you’re left with is a 普利姆索尔: just a slip-on, elasticated shoe with a 橡胶鞋底. 

And unfortunately, most of 日e style and elegance of an 帆布鞋 is lost too. For 日e amazing 日ing about an 帆布鞋 is how something so simple, light and comfortable can look elegant. I’m sure it’这是它之所以流行的原因,并且持续了很长时间,成为夏季经典。 

A 普利姆索尔 has 日e additional risk of making a man look like a schoolboy. Which is already a danger in 日e summer, wearing a T-shirt and shorts. 

我确实有这样的一对 从La Portenga,我经常穿,很舒服。但他们’由于这个原因,人们的穿着越来越少了。

The aspiration here is to look just a little - as much as possible - like James Mason (below). And 日at's not happening in a 普利姆索尔. 

A last question on 帆布鞋s is colour. This isn’不容易,因为浅色和深棕色的普通钉书钉’在画布上工作得很好。 

海军是默认设置,也许是最有用的,但没有’不能随便什么。 

次佳的可能是奶油色或天然帆布色,但是很快就会变脏。橄榄是不错的选择。

之后你’留下强烈的色彩或条纹。幸运的是,在夏天,您’可能会穿浅色的裤子或短裤,这两种颜色都可以搭配更大范围的鞋子颜色。 

I wear a 43 in 日e 德雷克’s,在Anderson中为9 &Sheppard是La Portegna的43岁,在Castaner的43岁至44岁之间。 

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