这是我们的第一篇文章 西装风格指南.
您 can see 日 e full contents so far, and browse between 日 em, on 日 e right-hand side of 日 is post.

安德森和谢泼德DB法兰绒西装专题讨论会

定制西装, 安德森& Sheppard  


什么’s 日 e difference between 订制, MTM and RTW?

近年来,男装的复兴受到以下因素的推动: enthusiasts,  创新的男装公司和互联网交流意味着,无论男人是想要买一套西装还是整个衣柜,他从来没有太多选择。

不幸的是,这种选择常常被品牌及其营销所遮盖– particularly when it comes to differentiating between 订制, made-to-measure and ready-to-wear suiting.

这种差异既不是偶然的也不是任意的。对于购买新西装要考虑的因素至关重要,并且可以对其进行严格定义。
  

麦金托什工厂

上衣 patterns hanging up

  
什么 is ready to wear (RTW)?

RTW西装是按照设计师确定的样式和款式从货架上购买的。 RTW西装的开发始于1950年代,当时制造商将男式服装分割成不同的尺寸以进行批量生产。世界上绝大多数’现在可以用这种方式制作西服。

什么 are 日 e benefits of RTW?

直接: 每套RTW西装都是按照通用尺寸和规格预制的。因此,只要您对尺寸和款式满意,就可以从架子上购买适合的西装并将其带回家。无需等待;几周内无需多次安装;无需想象这套西装的外观。

相对负担能力: 批量生产的性质意味着RTW西装通常是最便宜的,而男装的增长也意味着RTW的选择很多。

The increased quality of construction, use of details once reserved for 订制, and large range of fabrics means RTW is no longer limited to trendy suits with glued lapels made up in drab, cheap fabrics.

更好的RTW西装设计师趋于根据其投入西装的时间来区分。确实是最好的(例如 Kiton 要么 Cesare 阿托利尼) are largely 手made, although 日 e extra work tends to go into finishing 日 at 日 e customer can immediately see and appreciate (hand-sewn buttonholes) rather 日 an more fundamental structuring (hand-padded chest).

  
Kiton-Master-shirtmaker-Sebastiano-Borelli-3

工作台,基顿,那不勒斯

  
什么 are 日 e drawbacks of
准备穿?

预定义的拟合: 尽管有这些好处以及质量,细节和结构上的进步,大多数男人还是遇到了不可避免的合身问题。

甚至一个 基本清单 诸如胸围,肩膀,袖子长度,腰围(对于夹克和裤子)和裤子长度等测量数据表明,很少有男人会拥有完全适合RTW西装尺寸的尺寸。 因此,尽管西装可能在某些区域很合适,但在其他地方可能太长,太短,太松或太紧。 

因此,我们将 总是推荐 只需稍微修改一下RTW西装即可。

个人表达很少: RTW的另一个方面是,西装是为您设想的,因此,如果商店没有’没有颜色,裁切或布料’re looking for, you’我需要去别处。

这个赢了’对某些人来说是一个问题–的确,许多人喜欢由经验丰富的设计师领导进行造型和切割 –但是,那些对男装感兴趣的人会随着时间的流逝,开始围绕布料,裁剪和精加工做出自己的服装选择。这使我们需要量身定做…   
  

进一步阅读:

如何更改成衣套装

西装品牌– Reader Question

How to buy 物有所值 clothes – Reader Question

 

Kiton Lasa夹克Fitting4

适合一个 Kiton Lasa (MTM)外套

  
什么 is made to measure (MTM)?

MTM西装就像RTW,但具有合身性的优点。您访问商店时,那一天,推销员并没有带走您选择的西装,而是在布料和款式上进行了一些测量和选择,然后将它们发送到工厂(通常是制造RTW的工厂)。几周后的结果’等待是适合您个人尺寸的西装。胸围,腰围,袖长,裤长和裤腰都由您自己决定。

什么 are 日 e benefits of 衡量?

个人表达的更大范围: One interesting aspect of MTM is 日 e cloth, buttons and other trimmings available. In some ways, 日 e offering can be wider 日 an 订制.

The cloths are often more 起源al 日 an most of 日 e bunches cloth mills supply to 订制, because 日 e MTM brand is closer to RTW, where cloths are usually more experimental. They are also often exclusive to 日 at brand, again as with RTW.

随着对个性化兴趣的兴起,近年来,高端MTM也变得越来越普及,尤其是在那些’t do 订制 (布里奥尼,卡鲁索, 帕·齐莱里,Canali,Cucinelli等)。

两全其美,对吗? So in MTM we have 日 e (near) immediacy of RTW, especially in contrast to 日 e months taken for 订制. Similar (if not greater) options for cloth and finishing, at a price point closer to RTW 日 an 订制. And personalised measurements. It sounds like 日 e best of both worlds.
  

Kiton套装材料

从色板书摘布

  
什么 are 日 e drawbacks of
衡量?

更好地适合…to a point: Even MTM suits 日 at take into account a dozen 要么 more measurements rarely fit as well as 订制. Imagine 日 e long, S-shaped curve of your back (image below). How many measurements does it take to recreate 日 at?

MTM实际上仅处理简单,平坦的二维测量。它可以使袖子的长度正确,但不能说明您弯腰多少或哪个肩膀比另一个肩膀低.

推销员可以很好…but he’s not a 裁缝: The other problem with MTM is 日 at 日 e fitting is done by a salesman, not a 裁缝. So while 日 e potential of MTM is quite large, 日 e result often doesn’t fulfil it.

Unless you are an unusual size (eg tall with very long arms), a RTW suit altered by a good 裁缝 will often fit as well as a MTM suit of 日 e same price. The only remaining advantage of MTM is 日 at you can pick your material, lining and style. For some, 日 at is significant.
  

进一步阅读:

Thom Sweeney的西装– Reader Question

赖斯和量身定制– Reader Question

 Chittleborough& Morgan 订制 suit

Chittleborough& Morgan 订制 suit. 

  
什么 is 订制?

Bespoke, as 定期 readers will know, involves creating a suit from 日 e ground up. It can take any form, any shape, any material, and is usually 手made by two 要么 日 ree 裁缝s.

该过程首先针对您的需求进行初步讨论(您追求的是哪种类型的衣服,关于款式和衣服的想法,以及可能需要穿的方式和场合)。     

The 裁缝 日 en takes your measurements –一个看似无穷无尽的数字,其中的详细注释考虑了只有受过训练的眼睛才能注意到的姿势和身体形态方面。

A set of 订制 paper patterns is 日 en drawn and cut (some elements by eye), with 日 e cutter using his measurements and notes as a guide.

布你’然后使用这些样式切割所选的产品,并在几次拟合过程中将拟合结果细化为最终产品(通常在2到3之间,但在情况正确之前可能会更多)。 

什么 are 日 e benefits of 订制?

超合身: 显然,定制的最大好处是合身。尽管关于合身性的细节足够多,可以写出另一本完整的指南,但足以说一件好的定制西服应该适合其他人。它应该拥抱您的肩膀,打造干净的背部,并从肩膀到腰部以锋利,讨人喜欢的线条运行。它通常也会更舒适。

长寿: 从腰带的衬里到口袋的缝线,这一切工作应运而生,这意味着西服的使用寿命应比批量生产的任何产品都要长。

That 手work also makes it easier to adjust over time, and it will be adjusted by someone 日 at has served you before and is familiar with your body and your style. Unlike a salesman who is likely to change every year.

全面的创意控制: 定制还提供了开发真正个性化服装的机会,不仅在形状上,而且在材料,细节和后整理上。

While your imagination is 日 e only 日 eoretical limit, a good 裁缝 will also use 日 eir experience and sense of style to help guide you in pushing 日 ose boundaries without going too far. First-timers often make very showy suits, and 日 en barely wear 日 em (despite it being 日 eir highest quality and best-fitting).    
  

Sartoria Dalcuore Naples 订制 suit

A basted fitting for a Dalcuore 订制 suit

 

什么 are 日 e drawbacks of 订制?

时间和费用: Bespoke takes time. Typically a first suit from a 裁缝 will require 日 ree fittings, each a few weeks apart. Some positively enjoy 日 is process, but it’不是因为急躁。而且’s expensive: a 订制 suit can cost 从任何地方£1000 to £6000.

赢了’第一次就完美: Some people have 日 eir first 订制 suit made and 日 ink 日 at, because 日 ey can change everything, it will be perfect. But 日 ere is such a 日 ing as too much freedom.

您’重新打开创造性的闸门,摆脱了大规模生产的数学严谨性。它’确实很有趣,但是六个月后总会有您想要更改的事情,仅仅是因为您只是慢慢地意识到自己想要的是什么。

裁缝也会随着时间的推移完善自己的模式。所以那里’s a good chance your second suit with a 裁缝 will fit ever-so-slightly better 日 an 日 e first one. The first will still be better 日 an RTW 要么 MTM, but in 日 at sense too it won’不一定是完美的。

  
进一步阅读:

Picking a 裁缝 – Reader Question

Is a 订制 suit made entirely by 手? – Reader Question

How to buy my first 订制 suit – Reader Question
  

G&H Travel Jacket 1

Kathryn Sargent定制的夹克配件(然后是 吉维斯& Hawkes)

 

三个重叠的地方

当我’ve概述了三个不同的 类别之间的差异并不总是很明确。

Some RTW is made better 日 an some 订制 (eg Kiton has more 手work 日 an 格雷厄姆·布朗). MTM comes at hugely varying price points and quality levels (anywhere from £300 to £4000)。定制的装饰和设计质量也有很大差异。

但是最后,您需要为设计和价格购买RTW。

您 choose MTM when you want to change 日 e fit and to personalise 日 e suit.

And you choose 订制 when you want a mixture of 日 e best fit and 日 e best quality.

对我来说,合身永远是西服最重要的事情,因为它有可能使男人受宠若惊– to make him look leaner, stronger and sharper. That is 日 e biggest reason to choose 订制. Quality and design should be considered separately.
  

爱德华·塞克斯顿法兰绒西装,最好的英国

爱德华·塞克斯顿 订制 suit

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