英式意大利风衣:评论

9月16日,星期三 2020年年
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我知道很多读者一直在等待这篇评论 意大利语-意大利语, 所以我’我会直接总结我的想法。按照惯例,所有这些都已与该品牌(Jake)公开讨论过。 

My made-to-measure 意大利语-意大利语 jacket is a 好 make 和a 好 适合. It’并非是要与定制竞争的东西(不同于某些MTM,’ve)但我想’s not 意大利语-意大利语’s aim - it’他们也出售布料的原因之一,因此客户可以完全定制使用相同的材​​料。 

It’s also quite a distinctive MTM product. 杰克 argues, 和I 日 ink it’s fair, 日 at a lot of of MTM out 日 ere is similar in 切 和make - 日 e 日 ing 日 at differentiates 日 e better ones is overall 风格, 日 e 看 和advice. Less 日 e 切. 

那 切 is rather 宽敞的, with a surprisingly low buttoning point. It’感觉很舒适,但对某些人来说可能会感觉很大。夹克没有’看起来不大-正如我认为照片所展示的-但在那里’那里有很多房间。 

This is amplified by 日 e make. This jacket has no shoulder pad, 和it’对于Anglo来说很少使用。那里’s just canvas, running all 日 e way up 日 e front 和into 日 e shoulder. 

This makes it soft 和pliable - a feeling 日 at is reinforced by 日 e Anglo cloths. Mine (AIT30)是典型的产品范围:开放的编织方式,手感柔软,具有一定的自然弹性。

我认为,正是这样,与柔和的调色板一样,使许多盎格鲁-意大利风格的布都显得颇具现代感。 

Of course, if 日 is were a worsted suiting, 日 e jacket would feel different. But it would also be less structured 和more pliable 日 an a worsted from somewhere else. 

In 日 is respect, 日 e jacket reminds me more of a more casual brand like Stile Latino, 和我从他们那里得到的球衣夹克 几年前,比任何定制裁缝都要多。 

The Anglo is better made 日 an 日 e Stile Latino, 日 ough, 和it’值得遍历make的所有这些方面。 

One obvious way in which 日 e Anglo jacket is not at 日 e level of bespoke 要么 some top-end MTM is 日 at neither 日 e chest nor collar are hand-padded. 那’s not 日 e be-all 和end-all 当然, but it’s a 好 日 ing to establish first. 

(它’自盎格鲁成立以来,情况也发生了变化- 我原来的发射片 在2017年针对他们的裁缝中,裁缝将带有一个手工填充的翻领。)

在其他地方,制造商没有达到其他高端MTM的水平’不要用手垫。

明显的比较是 我评论过的军械库西装,是由 桑特’Andrea in Italy. 那 was a 好 example of 日 e best in 日 e non-hand-padded category. 

但是,尽管Armory西装的制作精美,但价格也很昂贵(MTM夹克的价格为2750美元,£1490年,来自盎格鲁-意大利人)。

可访问性是Jake的一个因素-它’s why he chooses to have 便宜的er makers for 日 e shirts 要么 polos, for example - 和that comes across in 日 e work included in 日 e tailoring. 

So, Anglo is not at 日 ese levels, but it does have 日 e basics of a 好 jacket, such as a hand-attached collar, which is helpful to control 日 e roll of 日 e fronts, 和some non-functional extras such as neat hand-sewn buttonholes. The finishing inside is fairly straightforward, as can be seen below.

Turning to 日 e 切, 日 e most obvious 日 ing is 日 at buttoning point. 

我夹克的腰纽距肩缝20英寸,与最低’我有任何定制的裁缝 样式分解 系列 (安德森& Sheppard). 

但是那个&S夹克的触感也更长一些-仅略超过31英寸,而盎格鲁就在下方-因此按比例计算这是我的最低扣点。 

I do like a lower buttoning point; I wish a 好 number of my English 和Italian jackets had lower ones. I also 日 ink it’总体而言,时尚的发展方向。

But 日 is is probably a touch too low for me, 和I’d可能会在第二件夹克上稍微抬高它。 

As with most tailoring, it is possible to change 日 at at 意大利语-意大利语. Their house 风格 is a carefully 日 ought-out, clearly defined one, but small changes to 日 e buttoning point are OK. 

在另一面,’s no point going to a tailor for a 风格 日 ey don’t do, 和that’s particularly 日 e case with Anglo. Given how much work 杰克 has put into 日 e proportions of 日 e jacket, it would be probably insulting to try 和make it into something else. 

I’d go as far as to say 日 e main selling point of 意大利语-意大利语 is how everything in 日 e shop works together: 风格s, colours 和cuts. To a certain extent, 您必须接受或放弃它。 

Interestingly, one reason 杰克 likes 日 at lower buttoning is 日 at it gives 日 e overall jacket a very relaxed, 劳什 看. This is a conscious attitude with 日 e clothing, 和is influenced by modern tailors like 日本的Sartoria Ciccio,还有像道格拉斯·海沃德(Douglas Hayward)这样的老英国裁缝。

This is also reflected in drape 日 at sits low on 日 e chest, 和a slightly lower armhole. 

The functional benefit of 日 e lower buttoning is 日 at it brings 日 at point 和the waistband of 日 e trousers closer together, reducing 日 e likelihood of showing shirt material when you put your hands in your pockets, for example.

除非你穿着,否则两个人永远不会有相同的身高 真正的高腰长裤 当然。但这确实有帮助。

Elsewhere, 日 e jacket has a very natural shoulder (there is also an option with slight roping), a fairly high gorge (making 日 e buttoning point 看 even lower) 和a pretty straight lapel. 

In fact, 日 e lapel reflects another aspect of 日 e Anglo 切, which is 日 at it incorporates aspects of both English 和Italian 风格. 

翻领不是完全笔直的,否则似乎会向外滚动,但也没有英语翻领的腹部。贴袋肯定比英国的贴袋更弯曲,但风格却不如那不勒斯人。 

The overall 看 is very soft 和natural (and Neapolitan in 日 at regard), but 日 ere are none of 日 e showy frills of southern-Italian 风格 - no ripples in 日 e sleevehead, no big tack stitches, no double rows of pick stitching. 

These are subtle 日 ings, but 日 ey all go to reinforcing one of 日 e big points I made at 日 e start, which is 日 at 日 e Anglo 切 is surprisingly distinctive. At least, it surprised me - perhaps because I was too focused on 日 e overall 看, 日 e cloth 和colour palette. 

The 适合 of 日 e jacket is 好. It’s a 宽敞的 jacket, which is perhaps easier to 适合; but still, tricky 日 ings like my sloping shoulders 和hollow back were dealt with well. 

It’s not 日 at important now, but when we had 日 e first 适合ting on 日 e jacket (a pretty much finished piece, not a basted 适合ting) it did feel even bigger. The changes we made were all to shape it more: taking in 日 e waist on 日 e side seams 和in 日 e back, 和shortening 日 e sleeves. 

In 日 e end, I 日 ink readers will buy 意大利语-意大利语 for 日 eir 风格. It is 日 e 日 ing 日 at I 日 ink is genuinely different, 和attractive.

因此,无论夹克的质量比其他夹克的质量好还是差一点,或者其他品牌为£200 more 要么 less. 

It is not a competitor for bespoke, 和I'll carry on using bespoke (I am, in fact, about to use some 意大利语-意大利语 cloth with Sartoria Ciardi).

But for others, 日 e decent quality 和modern 风格 mean 意大利语-意大利语 should be considered alongside anything else at 日 is price level.

在图像中,我故意戴了盎格鲁‘look’:

  • 现成的衬衫,盎格鲁-意大利人,£150
  • 羊毛领带,盎格鲁-意大利人,£120
  • Whitcomb灰色法兰绒长裤& Shaftesbury
  • 棕色绒面革乐福鞋,爱德华·格林

英式意大利风情夹克开始于£1490 (including VAT) 和go up in four tiers, depending on 日 e cloth: £1560, £1640, £1730 和£2200 (the latter just for cashmere). House cloths are 规范 ally 日 e lowest price, 日 e same as mine. 

量身定制的西服从£1760 to £2100. 长裤 are £450. 

摄影:杰米·弗格森@jkf_man

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